I have a 99 f150 and it won't shift out of park. The taillights work and I tried to turn the key forward and move shifter to neutral but it didn't work. Is it the switch on the brake pedal or the interlock solenoid by the shifter?
View 12 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
On my 97, just had a new engine installed. Suddenly the Lo presser AC switch died. Now the Start Solenoid (I think) just clicks sometimes. Is this Solenoid on the Firewall the Start Solenoid?
View 6 RepliesIn the passat section, if you scroll through the many safety features of the passat, you'll see the brake transmission shift interlock. It states: your foot must be on the brakes to shift out of drive--in either direction.
But what about sport mode? Do I have to put my foot on the brake (and come to a stop) to engage the sport mode? It was my understanding I could engage sport mode at anytime (while in motion).
Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
I have a 2003 F-150 supercrew 4x4, was having problems with the brake pedal going to the floor, had replaced the front calipers, master cylinder and the brake booster. I have blead everything out including the rear calipers even though I didn`t touch them, the truck stops but the pedal isn't what it used to be, even when the truck is off the pedal has a tendency to go down, there is nothing leaking and not losing fluid, don`t know what else to do?
View 3 RepliesI just finished replacing pads, calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders & brake drum hardware on my truck along with flushing the brake fluid. The brakes work but the pedal goes almost to the floor. While bleeding them some air did come out as expected. But a couple times the master cylinder reservoir got very low on fluid. The workshop manual talks about bleeding the MC but are special fittings needed for that?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 F 150 extended cab and the brake pedal is low. The front calipers and rotors were replaced last year because the left front caliper froze on and smoked the pads. I also replaced the brake booster and master cylinder because the brake booster showed signs of leaking vacuum. The whole system has been bled completely twice. After each bleed, the pedal was high and firm.
I have not found any sign of leakage and the fluid level looks ok and unchanged. The rear brakes look ok, but no work on them in last few years. Mileage is 198k. I had to hit the brakes hard on a muddy road a few weeks ago and the truck stopped straight, so the ABS seems ok. The problem is that the pedal has dropped down a few inches from where it was then the system was bled out. What to check next?
2001 F-150. I've got a leak around the warning switch and can't seem to find info about replacement. Is the switch and switch retainer screwed into the reservoir or is the outer ring screwed into reservoir and more of a compression type fitting that holds switch in place? Also, after removing and repairing will bleeding be necessary? Looks like everything I'm taking apart is above fluid level after I siphon enough fluid from reservoir to replace fitting.
View 2 RepliesThe brake pedal intermittently goes to the floor on my nephew's 2003 F150 without grabbing at all. Pumping the brakes restores them, then they act normally for a while. I've replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft unit, no change. No ABS codes. All rubber lines are in good shape. I'm stumped, although I suspect the ABS system somehow. I'm going to have him pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away.
View 6 Replies2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
I have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
View 14 RepliesPut foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
97 Venture, 4T60e trans, 197,000 mi. No shift or performance problems ever, solid as a rock. Well taken care of. Then a few months back it throws a P0758 code for Shift Solenoid B, and intermittently seems stuck in 3rd or 4th gear when starting from a stop. Wife drives w/ kids so immediately I park it to investigate and drive it myself and observe. Problem would happen usually after warming up and driving a couple miles, but would sometimes go away after shutting it off for a bit and going again.
After lots of research I decided it was probably a stuck solenoid and tried Sea Foam Trans Tune to see if it would clean it up, and it WORKED! For about 4 weeks that is, then came back. So I took the proper time and steps to replace both shift solenoids myself, and of course the fluid & filter (since you have to drain it to open the side cover anyway). My work is meticulous and clean, so I know nothing was done shoddy.
When removing shift solenoid A, however, a spring-loaded spool came partway out of that port in the valve body, didn't fall out, and I pushed it back in with the new solenoid. Everything else went back together flawlessly. On the first drive, it shifted to 1st as expected so all seemed well. Then after a several miles of driving I noticed something felt wrong - it was skipping 3rd gear altogether (1-2-4), and it would NOT downshift from 4th to 3rd. However if shifter was in "3" it would shift from 2nd to 3rd just fine, then I could put it in "D" and would hit 4th, but could only downshift to 3rd manually.
I am stumped, and it's been parked for months because something in the solenoid change has caused a major problem. I don't believe it could be mechanical gear/clutch failure as it shifts to 3rd w/ shifter in "3", and there was never a mechanical problem before. And it also still intermittently starts out in a high gear though quite seldom (3rd or 4th, not sure which but it barely moves) but putting shifter in "2" or "1" makes it start in 2nd. And never a SES light. Checked solenoid resistance at trans connector and they're perfect.
Tranny shop checked computer and said it's good, and also said "it's shifting just fine" which is absolutely not true. So much for a "free" diagnostic check... Could I have just gotten a bad solenoid? Could the spring-loaded spool that came part way out gotten hung up or the spring not reseated properly? Could it be the vacuum modulator (it got slightly bent upward when lowering engine)?
I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
A couple times recently, I've been unable to shift my truck out of Park & the brake lights don't work.
After checking the related fuses & finding them to be ok, it all works again.
What might be causing this to happen?
Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
I have a 2008 Impala that has been having interlock shift issues for about a week. The interlock shift button would not depress. I was able to remove the center console and take a look at some of the wiring. It there's a bundle of wires and there is a black wire that appears to be severed. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Impala models from 2006 through 2008...it should have been a recall, but for some reason was not. How can I do a low-cost DIY repair on this that's going to be solid and prevent recurring problems?
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 F150 4x4 (5.4) 173k miles. I bought the truck from family about 6 months ago and from time to time if you stepped on the brake pedal to hard (not locking up, but pretty hard) it would feel like the passenger rear tire would lock up. He said that there was an issue with the automatic adjuster on that side. Here lately the ABS light on the dash has been coming on every couple of days, of course on the next restart it's off. Could these two issues be related?
View 3 RepliesI have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesWell, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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