Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Bouncing Even By Closing The Tail Gate?
Sep 25, 2012
I have a 2003 F150 4x4 5.4 ex cab. The last few months, the back of my truck has been bouncing bad. Speed doesn't matter, every bump will make the back end bounce like crazy, heck even dropping or closing the tail gate will make it bounce. I've replaced the shocks at all 4 corners, rear shocks have been replaced with 3 different sets trying to rule out bad shocks out of the box, new leaf springs and shackles and hangers look good. I've checked the cab mounts, checked for cracks in the frame or anything loose. It has me stumped.
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I have a 2003 2wd F250 with the 7.3l. I replaced the stock tail gate with an aftermarket 5th wheel tailgate. Seems to work good but a couple of times the bottom of the tail gate where the hinge connects pops out when on dirt roads. I know it is probably from the shaking and rattling that the road causes but any way to prevent that from happening? I know most will say stay off the dirt roads but until they pave the road to the dunes camping spot I'm stuck with going down it.
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I have a 2006 Volkswagon Jetta GLI and when the check engine light went on I took it to my local car guy. He said the Turbo Waste Gate isn't closing properly and I should take it to the dealer to see if it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. He told me could replace it if that's what's needed but he can't repair it but I can still drive it probably just for a few months before it needs to be fixed.
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I have a tonneau cover that requires tail gate to be opened in order to open. All of a sudden, I can't get the tailgate to unlock. I was coming out of a motel with my bags instead of having them all locked in there.
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'99 Explorer. I adjusted the hinge pins several times and have to really slam the tail gate several times before the gate closes and the interior light goes out. How to make it easier?
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I'm wondering what the safe limit is for the amount of weight the tail gate can suppport ?
I need to get some 4x8 sheets of dry-wall and instead of leaving the tail gate down i'd rather have it up and support the pieces, but at 50-60 pounds a sheet I'm somewhat concerned about how many sheets the tail gate can support without causing issues.
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My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
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2016 F-350 Lariat Ultimate with Tail Gate Step: After returning the step inside the tail gate and closing the tail gate, the cap does not sit evenly across the top of the tail gate. As the gate locks, the cap "pops up" on the right side and correspondingly moves down on the left side. Truck was purchased on 11-04-2015 and this defect was not noticed during walk around.
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I have a 4.6 01 F150 with 3.08 rear end I got back in Sept. In Nov. I replaced the timing chain/guides and brakes/rotors all the way around. I have also flushed the cooling sys. and replaced all the coil packs/plugs in Nov. About 2 months ago I started feeling a vibration(feels like the truck is bouncing most of the time not bad but I know something isnt right) at ~37MPH. Not always bad but 98% of the time you can feel it.
I feel it at other speeds sometimes also. 2% of the time I dont feel anything. It had older tires and I got a new set ~ 3 weeks ago and its the same. A couple days ago I put a GoPro under it and filmed the driveshaft and it does seem to be bent some. What might be my issue or things I can check myself? One other note is the previous owner did use the truck to haul a horse trailer some and I know now that rear end was not the best for that! Truck has 210K on it and engine was replaced at ~ 150K
2001 F150 Driveshaft wobble - YouTube
I went down the street and back and only got up to ~35MPH
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
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2009 lexus lx570 tailgates problems? Mines open correctly but when you going to close sounds 2 beeps and no close automatically!
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My 2001 f150 is having a issue with the dome light. Sometimes when I park with the truck leaning to the right the dome light won't shut off when closing the door. What is the name of the switch that shuts the dome off? I assume it is located behind the kick panel.
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I have a 98 f150 that I don't drive often. I had it out tonight and realized the my brake lights wouldn't come on unless I pressed the peddle down hard. Does the switch work off of pressure? They used to come on as soon as I would touch the peddle.
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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He has a 98 F150 4x4 and the tail lights are staying on all the time. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called) but that didn't solve the problem. So now he has been taking the fuse out every time he stops, just so the lights will go off. When he puts the fuse back in, the tail lights stay on all the time, but his widows will not roll down. The windows roll down when the brake fuse is out.
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My '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
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My DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
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I have a 2003 Ford f150 5.4. Heater blows hot, then cold, then hot then cold. When it start blowing cold it pukes out the degas bottle. I have burped it, did the combustion test to make sure not a blown head gasket, the oil clean, there is moisture coming out tail pipe but it has no coolant in it. flushed heater core, pulled water pump off and checked it, its good. Changed thermostat 2 times, put front on ramps to get any air out. I am at a total loss now.
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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My mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
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I understand how the waste gate is supposed to work at high rpms / boost.
I believe that as long as I keep the max boost down, that I can run with the waste gate plugged in order to goose the power a little in the 2000-28000 RPM range. Since the truck is stock and there's no intention of running higher RPMs, it seems like plugging the waste gate is a good idea. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something.
It appears that the wast gate also opens when at idle and possibly when you let off the throttle. Are these important functions of the waste gate as well?
Here's a chart showing waste gate operation...
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