Today I changed my intake manifold gaskets n I hooked everything back n now its bogging out n popping as it's idling, I put new spark plugs but it still the same. What the problem might be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
My friend has a 2000 f-150 2x2 and was following him and he said he heard something pop and then no transmission , haven't put a code reader on it yet. It's not the flex plate starer works fine fluid is a little discolored and has no bad burned smell to it.
View 1 RepliesI've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
View 4 RepliesI'm going crazy here with this strange noise on my '01 Screw. EVERYTIME it starts to rain - and I mean immediately upon starting to rain - I get a strange clicking and popping sound that is unmistakably near the passenger rear door, up high, almost in the corner of the cab. Today my wife and I were driving and it starting to rain and I saw her start cocking her head and I said, "Do you hear it too?" She confirmed where it is coming from, but I just can't figure it out. My truck has a cap on it, but it doesn't seem like it is related to that. It is ANY kind of rain too. Precipitation=sound. Really odd.
View 9 RepliesGot a 1999 ford f150 2 wheel drive. I have replaced both upper and lower control arms with ball joints on both sides. New shocks, new stablelizer links, new inner and outer tie rod ends. Also, a new steering gear and i still have popping noise coming from both sides around the wheel area when i enter or leave out of drive ways, turning, or running in a hole. Doesn't do in going straight. I don't know what else to do. Driving me insane. I keep spending money on this truck and still where i first started.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 Ford Taurus. It ran fine when I got it but the third time I drove it, it started acting up. I was driving down the highway and I noticed it was missing a little bit. Then about 10 minutes later it started not being able to keep up speed. It just seemed to kinda bog down or something when I gave it more gas. The longer I drove the slower it would go until it eventually stopped. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a cam sensor and cam synchronizer or something like that. When that didn't fix it he said it was the fuel pump and filter, which didn't work either. Took it to another and he said to try changing spark plugs and then coil pack after that didn't work. It runs fine when I first start the car but the more I push the accelerator the faster it starts bogging down.
View 15 RepliesLariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
View 3 RepliesJust got this vehicle a week ago. Test drove before I bought but that drive was fine. Then after driving I started have a popping. Started paying attention at this point and noting what happens when.
It seems I don't have any problem at all until she gets warmed up. I can drive about 20 miles with no problem. Then the OD is Off light starts flashing. Then when I decelerate to stop, I have a big popping at exactly 20 mph. I then have 2 smaller pops once I take off from my stop.
I started searching online everywhere to determine the cause. I am a female whose daddy taught them just enough not to be completely stupid, but not near enough to be able to fix my own car problems. I thought from what I've read that this issue might be a torque converter. I do have a hum after a while that sounds like road noise....like I saw one other person post about bad TC's. But I haven't seen any posts that address the popping.
1997 Ford F150. 6 cyl, 4.2L, 138K miles. (Still) keep getting back the P401 code. I've checked (and re-checked) and cleaned all the ports and checked connections on the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid. Everything seems to be working OK. Have replaced the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid and (still) after clearing the code and driving ~30 miles, I keep getting the CEL light pop back on and P401 code popping up. Is their anything else to check ??
View 5 RepliesRecently, when turning while the car is in reverse, I started noticing a popping sound coming from the area near my right front tire. Now, when I accelerate quickly from a dead stop or drive away after being stopped on a hill, I'm hearing that same popping/clunk noise from the right front tire. When I'm stopped at a light and then take my foot off the brake, wait a second, and then gently accelerate, I don't hear it. I've had a couple of mechanics take a look at the cv boot for the right front tire, but they tell me that it's not cracked or broken. Is it possible that the cv joint has gone bad, but the boot is not broken? Or, is there something else going on?
View 4 Replies2003 Escape 2.0L ... I occasionally hear a single "pop" sound when I turn left. It seems to be coming from the area of the right rear wheel. Any obvious candidates for this issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 F150, 302 with E4OD, I've replaced most everything I can think of to address the engine bogging in reverse (TPS, EGR, VSS, replaced the trans filter, tune-up and MLPS). It does not bog every time and seems to do it more when the engine is warm.
I pulled the ECU and opened it up. There was nothing obvious inside that looked burned, damaged, etc. Since it is almost 20 years old and the truck has 197K miles, should I go ahead and replace the ECU as well??
I've got a 1994 F-150 with the 4.9 straight six. The transmission is the E40D.
In drive, it shifts silky smooth. In reverse, it acts like it's bogging down the engine.
I only recently got the truck. It's had a fluid and filter change, and is full on the stick when hot.
I didn't notice this problem until I replaced the engine thermostat. It was stuck open, so I replaced it with a 195 degree Stant unit.
Should I let the engine control computer re-learn this engine? I've fixed bad vacuum lines, too.
I've heard tales about the electronic transmissions. This one has 145K on it.
It's Nissan Altima 97. My friend need to take her road test so I let her borrow my car this weekend to do some road practice (I was in the car with her). Besides all the heavy braking, and sudden acceleration. She did alright. Because she is from VT, so she was practicing this VT Turn Around (I have never heard of it before today). She turn the wheel all the way to the right and back up.
I heard a small popping noise, and didn't pay too much attention to it at that moment. However, After she finish that VT Turn Around, we started to driving down the hill, and heard this metal-on-metal noise. It lasted for 10 ft, then went away. The noise is coming from my driver side front wheel. When I got off the car, I found the center of the wheel cover pop off.
(see this link for the pictures) [URL] .......
Now here are my questions. What just happened? and do I need to get it look at immediately, or can I wait until the next oil change?
I drive a 1997 dodge Dakota 5.2l 5 speed manual 4wd and recently it started making a really aggressive banging or popping noise while I was driving, it also made the truck bounce up and down a little bit and I could feel the shifter move up and down while this was happening. So I went underneath and discovered my transmission mount was out so I changed that and as well I changed a few u joints. One thing i noticed while I was replacing u joints was that when I had the front drive shaft off the whole problem was reduced to just a minor popping noise but once I slapped back on the front drive shaft it all came back. Another problem that is occurring because all of this is that when I tried to use the 4wd in 4 hi it just kicked it out of 4hi but in 4 lo it would stay in but all the problems were still there. The only time it doesn't do anything is when I am already rolling and I put the 4wd selector in neutral to disengage the drive shafts.
I have asked a few different people their opinions and I get different answers, someone thought it could be something to do with the steering shaft or intermediate steering shaft but I think that is not the correct diagnostic. Another one of my buddies suggested that it might be a stretched chain or gear in the transfer case that is causing it.
I am trying to put in after market keyless entry on my 03 sd wired up my relays according to the 5 wire alternating door locks found on this page
[URL]....
but it keeps popping my fuse when I try to put it in, if this is even the correct set up I found another guy on here that used the same set up but never said if it worked or not
I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.
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