Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Battery Light On Intermittently - Ground Location?
Sep 4, 2014
F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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Had a question about where the battery fuse is located and it's number. I just put a brand new alternator on.my truck. Turns out I might not have needed one, switched the battery with the new alternator on and the truck still went dead after it ran for about 10-12 seconds. So some told me it may be the battery fuse but I don't know which fuse it could be.
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Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
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My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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I have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
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Ok, so the OD light sometimes blinked and sometimes not. I drive for a week. About 500-600 mi. Today the tranny starts acting up. Up until today NO probs at all. I bought a code scanner. Codes are P0781, and P0743. I also bought new filter and fluid while there. I read here that it could be a shift spring that is easily accessed when doing the filter change. I guess I should get that and do it,and the filter and see what happens next?
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I own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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I have a 2003 F150. When the temperature is hot outside and I have the air conditioner on the Gauge will sweep and the ABS light and battery light will go on. The battery gauge will go to high charge. When RPM is dropped (idle) or when the RPMs are increased to pass a vehicle, everything returns to normal. Power windows will not work but all other functions due. It will boil my battery if ran to long like this. I have changed the alternation and battery. Only happens in the summer?
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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1999 F150
automatic, v8 4wd 430K miles Low Battery light is on.
Other than the usual things to check: battery cable connections, corrosion at contact points, checking with a voltmeter, having battery tested, having alternator tested for volts and amps... are there other known issues with this year model/setup?
Also, once the battery is changed, is there a way for the codes to be cleared out or reset without having to hook it up to a computer?
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My 97 with a 4.6 has had some charging issues. It started when I left a trailer hooked up with dome lights on (ignition to the on position, not running, for the trailer hot circuit) and it drained the battery. I boosted it to move it and put the charger on it. It ran fine till the other night (a week later) and on the road the CEL light came on. I didn't get another mile till the lights dimmed and the dash lights went out and the radio started flashing. I turned off the radio and heater to get home (another 2 miles). On the rest of the way it would drop to 8volts then up to 13-14 and the headlights would get bright. Then it would drop back down.
The whole time the battery lamp in the cluster never came on (forgot there was one). I pulled the alternator and took it in to have it tested. They said it tested fine. I re-installed it and fired the truck up and the battery lamp would fade in and out. I put a charger on the battery again overnight and now when it runs the battery lamp only comes on at idle and goes off when I increase the RPMS past about 1,400.
Is it possible that the alternator is going bad and the tester was running it at high enough RPMs to generate proper output?
I made sure to check the wires on the connectors going to the alternator when I re-installed it and made sure there was enough tension on the connectors before putting them on the pins. I've also thoroughly cleaned the battery clamps and inspected the wires at that point for corrosion. I haven't traced it back. If it is related at all, I had it in a few weeks ago for tires so I had an oil change done and they replaced the serp belt. Should I have it tested elsewhere, should I start tracing wires for corrosion?
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Trying to find ground wire location on my 99 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton I didn't unbolt it myself. Going to be doing the big 3 upgrade soon and would like to use the factory ground spots.
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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It all started......when I got onto the highway and glanced down at the gauge cluster and noticed my battery light was on and kind of flashy (clipping, so to speak)...and that I was in 2nd gear...whoops. (My tach's busted, else I probably would have noticed that sooner.)
Quick correction and things are right as rain. The next day I go out and make 3-4 stops with less than 10 minutes of drive time between each. I'm almost home (battery light's been on intermittently since last night) and the idle slows slightly and the windows no longer work. I make it home and the gauge cluster is dead by now, but leave the truck running, grab a socket wrench and pry off the positive battery lead. Truck dies.
I'm thinking alternator, so I pull the battery and charge it inside, then pull the alternator the next day and have it tested. Tests fine (putting out 1430 (is that mA?) per O'Reilley's). Crap. Cleaned all connections (including taking off the negative terminal grounded to the starter and shining it up a little, then pulling the connections off the firewall and sanding them lightly), checked 20A inline blade fuse, both 175A fusible links, but it's still not charging. If I want to go anywhere, I have to pull the battery and charge it inside.
I was thinking it might be the voltage regulator, but I just called O'Reilley's and they told me that the test on the alternator included the regulator. I just confirmed that the belt on the pulley is okay. What did I most likely fry that caused my battery light to come on? (97 4.6L)....
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My 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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