Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Battery Light On Dash
Sep 27, 2015
This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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I have a 2003 F150. When the temperature is hot outside and I have the air conditioner on the Gauge will sweep and the ABS light and battery light will go on. The battery gauge will go to high charge. When RPM is dropped (idle) or when the RPMs are increased to pass a vehicle, everything returns to normal. Power windows will not work but all other functions due. It will boil my battery if ran to long like this. I have changed the alternation and battery. Only happens in the summer?
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I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
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Why the O/D off light on the dash is flashing??? Whats it mean? Its a 2000 ford explorer...4.0 V-6
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I have a 99 F150 4X4 with 4 wheel ABS and 80K miles. My ABS light on the dash has been coming on recently. It will go out for a while, & then come on again later.What is the first step to figure this out? I am a points/carburetor guy trying to figure out these modern machines.
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The e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
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1999 F150
automatic, v8 4wd 430K miles Low Battery light is on.
Other than the usual things to check: battery cable connections, corrosion at contact points, checking with a voltmeter, having battery tested, having alternator tested for volts and amps... are there other known issues with this year model/setup?
Also, once the battery is changed, is there a way for the codes to be cleared out or reset without having to hook it up to a computer?
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My 97 with a 4.6 has had some charging issues. It started when I left a trailer hooked up with dome lights on (ignition to the on position, not running, for the trailer hot circuit) and it drained the battery. I boosted it to move it and put the charger on it. It ran fine till the other night (a week later) and on the road the CEL light came on. I didn't get another mile till the lights dimmed and the dash lights went out and the radio started flashing. I turned off the radio and heater to get home (another 2 miles). On the rest of the way it would drop to 8volts then up to 13-14 and the headlights would get bright. Then it would drop back down.
The whole time the battery lamp in the cluster never came on (forgot there was one). I pulled the alternator and took it in to have it tested. They said it tested fine. I re-installed it and fired the truck up and the battery lamp would fade in and out. I put a charger on the battery again overnight and now when it runs the battery lamp only comes on at idle and goes off when I increase the RPMS past about 1,400.
Is it possible that the alternator is going bad and the tester was running it at high enough RPMs to generate proper output?
I made sure to check the wires on the connectors going to the alternator when I re-installed it and made sure there was enough tension on the connectors before putting them on the pins. I've also thoroughly cleaned the battery clamps and inspected the wires at that point for corrosion. I haven't traced it back. If it is related at all, I had it in a few weeks ago for tires so I had an oil change done and they replaced the serp belt. Should I have it tested elsewhere, should I start tracing wires for corrosion?
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98 F150. Failed inspection for the dash brake light not coming on when you turn the key on. It comes on with the park brake set. Should it come on with key on as a bulb test?
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My amber ABS dash light in my 2003 F150 came on the other day. I changed out the rear pumpkin sensor, ohmed the front wheel sensors (they were within specs posted in FTE forum) and changed out the master cylinder pressure switch under the hood (my left/rear bulb was burnt out around the same time the ABS light came on). After doing all this the light remains....so I had the ABS code read and mechanic advises code C1206 was present. He recommended replacing the "dump valve on the frame rail". He also advised this is a very expensive fix so I might just want to live with the light being on all the time. What should my next steps be to get rid of the ABS light and get my ABS system working properly?
2003 F150 SuperCrew 4X4
4.6L V8 , 285/75/16 tires , 127K miles
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Have a 97 F150 4.2 that won't start. The lights come on in the interior. Dash lights all come on, turn the key and nothing. Replaced the solenoid on the firewall and no go. Was able to jump it at the solenoid on the firewall and it started. Not sure what's causing this.
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I have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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It all started......when I got onto the highway and glanced down at the gauge cluster and noticed my battery light was on and kind of flashy (clipping, so to speak)...and that I was in 2nd gear...whoops. (My tach's busted, else I probably would have noticed that sooner.)
Quick correction and things are right as rain. The next day I go out and make 3-4 stops with less than 10 minutes of drive time between each. I'm almost home (battery light's been on intermittently since last night) and the idle slows slightly and the windows no longer work. I make it home and the gauge cluster is dead by now, but leave the truck running, grab a socket wrench and pry off the positive battery lead. Truck dies.
I'm thinking alternator, so I pull the battery and charge it inside, then pull the alternator the next day and have it tested. Tests fine (putting out 1430 (is that mA?) per O'Reilley's). Crap. Cleaned all connections (including taking off the negative terminal grounded to the starter and shining it up a little, then pulling the connections off the firewall and sanding them lightly), checked 20A inline blade fuse, both 175A fusible links, but it's still not charging. If I want to go anywhere, I have to pull the battery and charge it inside.
I was thinking it might be the voltage regulator, but I just called O'Reilley's and they told me that the test on the alternator included the regulator. I just confirmed that the belt on the pulley is okay. What did I most likely fry that caused my battery light to come on? (97 4.6L)....
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I have a 99 F150 5.4 V8 4x4, My problem is when I engage 4Hi the dash light "low range" turns on but NOT the 4x4 light. Now if I go to 4Low the 4x4 light turns on(Low Range light stays on). So in essence the lights are backwards. In 4Hi it is not engaging 4 wheel drive. Also its a SOTF not electronic selector.
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F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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