My Daughter just bought a nice 99 F150 and the auto trans gear dash indicator is off by one so park says R and drive says N ... shes also having a little trouble with the key occasionally so I think the problems are related. Is this adjustable or not?
View 5 RepliesThe trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
View 8 RepliesJust bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
View 8 RepliesThe truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 RepliesMy 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
What is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
I have a 2014 f250 with the 6.2 and just turned 13,800 miles. I tend to drive in tow haul a lot, while not towing because I like the shift pattern better and saves on brakes while stopping. Last night I slowed to a stop sign, came to complete stop. Went to take off slowly like always and the truck was like in neutral, looked down and the indicator showed 5th gear. Let off and watched it go to 1st and took off no problem. This all took only half a second or so, seemed fine after that. What might of happened?
View 3 RepliesI have an '04 Camry with auto trans that has developed a whine in 1st gear, not noticeable in the higher gears. Is this normal and nothing to be concerned about or is corrective action needed. I have searched other threads but none with this particular issue. I have 50,000 miles and the trans has not been serviced other than checking for normal fluid level and color/smell.
View 14 RepliesA friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
View 2 Replies1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
View 2 RepliesMy VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesIs there an easy way to do this...???
View 2 Replies2005 tundra sporadically misfires/sputters after slowing/downshifting (autotrans) to 2nd gear.....then when accelerator is kicked a bit the engine wants to spit/sputter like a misfire or flooding..... V8 engine by the way.
View 2 RepliesI read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
The small screen in the middle between the speedometer and the RPM has not been functioning ever since in bought my Automatic 1.8T.
Now, to set some things straight, my transmission works fine. The small screen lights up in blue when the lights are lit, but the actual gears are not shown both with light or without light.
I checked my Fuses and all seem well. What could be the issue?
2003 jetta wagon 1.8t 106000miles with the tiptronic auto trans, has no forward or reverse, no codes, have already drained fluid and refilled, i can see the rpm gauge move when i shift from park to R to D etc, but it will not go at all, i'm thinking maybe the toque converter has failed.
View 6 Replies