Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Any Way To Permanently Lock The Front Wheels?
Jan 18, 2017
Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
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I had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
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I have a 2005 KR that the 4wd doesn't lock in the front wheels. I haven't seen my exact problem as I have been searching it. When I turn the switch. The dash lights both in high and low 4wd. I hear the transfer motor engage in both hi and low. No ratcheting noises from the wheels. I have replaced the solenoid. And still nothing. Checked fuses And they are OK.
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This is the first winter I'm driving my truck. I put it in in 4x4 HIGH the other night due to the snow (and I wanted to check out everything).
Seemed to work fine until I was backing into a parking spot doing a full lock turn. It didn't seem to move. I gave it a little more throttle and it "released" like it was stuck or going over an obstacle. Happened again when I did a full turn backing into my driveway (this time turning the opposite way).
It seems to work fine going forward with tight turns. Also and it doesn't "bind" in 4x2 mode. I haven't tried 4x4 LOW yet ... I guess I don't want to wreck anything if it's not operating properly. Is this normal?
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1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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So I'm new to the all time awd car thing. I came from a 4x4 truck which 4x4 was never engaged on pavement or in tight cornering. When maneuvering my is250 awd in tight spots ie. parking lots and the front wheels are at full lock in either forward or reverse there is a slight binding/grinding feeling or faint noise. Is this normal on an awd car or Lexus specific??? Did a quick search and didn't find much about this issue. I'm pretty sure its not tire rub.....stock set up.
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I have a 1998 F-150 and when shifting into 4 wheel drive (manual floor mount shifter) the drive shaft from the transfer case turns but the wheels do not engage.
Looking for a diagram of how the axle works?
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Wanting to install 315/75-16 tires with wheels on 02 Super Crew 4x4. Can we do it by adjusting torsion bars for leveling or will we need a lift?
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Here's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
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I have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
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1999 F-150 Sport 4x4
So the deal is I had to use a slim jim to open up my truck door the other day. Door still locks/unlocks fine, only not with the key. Key will still fit & turn the barrel without any prob. just doesn't engage the lock. Took the door panel off and it looks as if the Rod that connects the inside of the key barrel to the lower (part)? not familiar w/name. has come loose.
Looking for a diagram/picture of how it should look to get everything put back together so the key'll work again. Sucks unlocking passenger side and climbing over to open driver door.
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2002 super crew. My key fob will unlock the doors but it will not lock the doors even though lights blink and horn honks like it is locked. Also on all doors the unlock buttons works but all of the lock buttons do nothing. At first I though just maybe had 1 bad lock but why would all the doors start doing this at once?..
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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F150 - 2003 ... Do some of these trucks actually not have power door locks that operate both sides? Or, is there something wrong with my newly purchased truck's door locks? If so, how hard is it to put in an aftermarket electric door lock?
All I need is for both the things to lock from one door. I haven't had to manually lock all doors in a vehicle I have owned for over 30 years, and it is hard to teach an old dog new tricks.
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After a transmission flush, my husband's Ford Ranger rear wheels have locked when backing out of the garage; pulling out of a parking spot; and driving down a hill.
He had checked the transmission fluid level, and it was a little high. The shop drained it down to where it should be, said the fluid was discolored, and sent him on his way. But it has happened again since then.
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The power door lock switches, on both driver and passenger doors, only functions to lock the door but will not unlock. When either switch is depressed to lock, both function with no problem. But when depressing either side button to unlock, there is absolutely no activity at all. Like there is no current reaching either one. This happened once about a week ago, but my son came along and just kept pressing the passenger side button and it came back to life after 5 or 6 tries. But now the same problem has recurred and it will not resolve.
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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My '03 F-150 passenger door "growls" every time the doors lock. Is there a gear on the lock solenoid that could be stripped out or something?
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