Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Any Way To Disable Ignition Under The Hood For Safety?
Oct 16, 2014
So, I'm wondering if there is a way of disabling my ignition manually by taking something out from under the hood?
I've read somewhere that taking the fuel pump out works? I'm wondering if there is a chip or something small in the power distribution box that I can take out so if someone breaks in to my truck, they can't start it.
I have some pictures of my power distribution box with all the chips...
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I don't like the idea of Safety Connect, and already have AAA membership. How can I disable Safety Connect? I'm only a few months into a trial membership, do I call toyota to cancel? Or can I just disconnect some fuse?
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Is there a way to disable the safety agreement that comes up on the radio every time you turn the car on? This is such an unnecessary PITA to have on this vehicle. Is there a setting or a way to find the file in the system and delete it?
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I bought the truck from the original owner, its a true to life cream puff. Fully loaded. What I don't like is the doors lock automatically when I start driving. I want to disable that feature. Any way to accomplish this? 2002 Supercrew XLT lariat....
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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First off I have a 1997 F-150 4.6 with 205,000 miles on it.. stock engine and tranny. It's been a great truck and never given me any major problems. But recently something under the hood (wish i could be more specific) makes a really loud HUMMING noise (almost sound like a trumpet). For example- say im driving on the highway and i let off the gas, this humming noise will appear and it is very loud, but right when i give the engine some gas the humming goes away.
Or also when I am driving through town, when i come to a stop light, let off the gas to apply the breaks, this humming noise will come about. what i have to do is stick the truck in neutral and give it a big rev (which i do like hearing my exhaust so it isn't always annoying) and then it stops. note though, it doesnt happen every single time i let off the gas, however it is pretty frequent.
do yall think this is in the air intake system? thatd be my only guess because when i rev the engine it quits, but one thing is it sounds like it comes more from the passenger side of the truck, and it seems to occur more often when the temperature outside is cold. im completely stumped by this one, ive never heard anything like it.
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My 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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I recently purchased my 1998 F150 Lariat, and it came with a small silver key (I haven't figured out what it's for yet), and a key for the ignition, plus the remote door lock control on the key chain.
Naturally, for the first several weeks I had been locking and unlocking the doors with the remote. I had assumed that the ignition key would also lock/unlock the doors and tailgate. Well, it fits into the locks, but doesn't turn.
Could it be that a different key is required for doors, or, maybe the door lock cylinders are seized?
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
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2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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So yesterday i got my windshield tinted at a shop and now im having issues. My ac stays on when the key is out of the ignition i can use all settings from low to high. My windshield wipers only work in neutral and park. Im calling them when they open but i think the water they spray on the tint got down in the dash and fried something.
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Have 2000 Ford XLT Extended Cab 4x4 with 5.4. It will not start. Put the ignition in on position and can't hear the fuel pump running. Fuse Okay, Relay OK. Does this year have A Fuel Pump Driver Module? If so, where is it located? I know where they are located on 2004 and up but not mine. If I have to change out Fuel pump, is it easier to pull the tank or the Bed?
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I have been looking around on here for an answer and I can't find exactly what I am looking for. My key is worn down and will not easily move. My spare key is like new and works great. I have a spare that doesn't have a chip in it and it will turn over the engine but not fire it up. Even with the old key and the non chip key touching together at the switch, the truck will not fire up. How does this set up work and can I remove the chip from the old key and attach it to the no chip key.
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Vehicle will start when put in drive and when put in reverse starter engages and also the ignition wont start vehicle sometimes and the o/d light blinks when driving down the road...
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
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Ok, so I got a really wierd problem with headlights. 2001 F150, Supercrew, 4x4, 5.4L Auto lights and fog lights. Sitting with ignition off, light switch in "off" position, doors not locked - lights will occasionally blink off and on(more of a flicker). Symptoms go away if I lock with remote.
With engine running, lights "on" position. Turned lights to "park", they started to flicker, back to on, still flickering. Switched to off, still flickering. Switched to "auto", lights stayed on with no flickering.
When lights flicker, I can hear a rapid clicking under the dash somewhere(relay of some sort?). Headlight is a bit wobbly. But when I wiggle it, it has no effect on flickering. From what I remember, likely culprit is the GEM module.
Question: does a new module have to be programmed in any way or is it plug and go? I have a new headlight switch coming.
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