Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Alternator Went Out / Battery Dying
May 19, 2014
My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
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The car won't start. It sounded like the battery was dying when we tried to start it the other day. We went and got a new battery, but it didn't work. It has a new altenator, new starter, new timing chain and it's also had a transmission rebuild all within the last 4 years. I'm not really sure when the spark plugs were last replaced. Could this be the issue?
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I've recently begun experiencing a problem with my truck dying immediately upon start up. It's a 99 5.4 and it will act like it's starting normally but then will idle down and die. If I gas it to 4000-5000 rpm it will eventually return to normal idle and run fine. At first it was once a week and then every day, usually upon the second start of the day but today it happened twice and I suspect it will become more frequent. What to check that doesn't involve a Ford Dealer?
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Have a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
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Well, the B5 continues to die when left overnight. Seems the Alternator is gone on this thing (my conception)
As soon as I give it a jump, it starts up right away. If I let it run for about 5-10 minutes and then try to restart it, it gives me no issues. If i come back the next morning it will be dead and will need another jump to get it started.
I am thinking that this is the Alternator. I don't have any warning lights that come on, such as "Alternator Worship". Car runs totally fine once its jumped. The battery is not even a year old.
Also, if it does turn out to be the Alternator, which one does my car take? 90amp or 120amp? The car is a 2000 GLX V6 Auto. What can I expect to have it replaced including labor??, or could this possibly be a DIY job? I'm trying to give it a chance before I throw it in neutral and push it off a cliff.
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My 1997 Mercury Sable has been having a rough time starting lately. It will turn over, but 2 out of 3 starts will be labored. It will crank, but hesitate and finally give enough to start. When I start it at night and turn on the headlights they dim and flicker until the engine has been running a bit.
This car was originally my wife's, and she can't remember the last time it has had it's battery replaced.
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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Took in the alternator to get it checked and they said it was good. Put it back on and it seemed like it was charging according to my volt meter (14.24-13.5 v)
Today, it's not charging. Only reads 12.2 v while running. Is there a fuse or something I need to check? Grounds? It seems intermittent.
2003 F-250 V10 6.8 liter 255,000 miles.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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I drive a '99 F150 4x4 5.4 EFI 196,000 miles. Recently I started noticing a growling noise that followed engine speed. I immediately thought alternator going out. So I pulled the belt off and it spins free and doesn't feel rough at all.
So I started it up and realized the noise got a lot louder when the ac clutch cycled. Now I'm thinking ac compressor. A short trip to my mechanic who didn't even really look at it very long and he said the compressor is about ready to seize up. I thought I might just put on an ac bypass pulley to get by for a while. Not really a sound decision in the middle of July, I'm thinking, but I'm poor and it beats having the compressor lock up, right?
Today, when I get off work and pop the hood with the ac off and the clutch not engaged the noise is worse than ever. I put a stethoscope (long screwdriver, I told you I was poor) on the alternator and it is making all of the noise. Turned the ac on again and it was really making noise now. So I applied the stetho-driver to the ac compressor and it is quiet as can be.
I am cautiously optimistic that the alternator is the sole culprit and that it only gets louder when the ac cycles because of the extra drag on the belt.
Does that seem like a logical explanation? Should I just try the alternator? I really don't want to destroy a perfectly functioning ac system only to find out that it was OK to begin with and I don't want to buy a $150 alternator for no reason either.
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Alternator warning lite comes on at idle rpm. Speed up rpm lite goes out. The gauge shows alternator is charging. Autozone checked it for me it is putting out 11 to 11.5amps running. Should be putting out around 13 amps, right? alternator bad?
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton, 99xxx miles. I was towing my boat when the regulator in my alternator went bad. I drove the truck with the voltage being sporadic for about 10 miles until I could get to a parts store. While driving on the bad alternator, I started noticing a misfire. I replaced the alternator, battery and DPFE. I still have the misfire....but here is the kicker. The misfire only happens when the truck reaches operating temperature. Which, in my limited knowledge, eliminates a fouled plug, COP, bad injector and a vacuum leak. I've got no check engine light so I can't pull a code. The only thing I can think of is to clean the EGR?
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I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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I bought a 99 f350, that already had HID's in it, i found out i was running the wrong batters (weren't 800 cold crank) I just had to replace the alternator. Ever since the new alternator when i turn on my headlights my truck shuts off. IT fried my IDM and i just put a new IDM and 2 new batteries in it today. Thinking i had fixed the problem i drove around no issues, finally i was leaving someones house and turned on my lights, and truck shuts off!!! It restarts but now im trowing a code!!!! im guessing the HIDs are wired wrong and that's why its shutting down the truck but OEM IDM from ford is 1300$!!!!! brand new one installed today,
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel, I am looking at switching out the air intake? Also, I have an issue with the code for a dual upper and lower generator fault.. I checked and only have one generator not a dual system.. The alternator is running strong at 14.1.. But I have noticed when I start it up it is down to 12..
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I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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