Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Alternator Changed - All Lights Flicker / Go Dim Then Come Back On Bright Again
Apr 12, 2016
I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
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I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
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My 1997 Mercury Sable has been having a rough time starting lately. It will turn over, but 2 out of 3 starts will be labored. It will crank, but hesitate and finally give enough to start. When I start it at night and turn on the headlights they dim and flicker until the engine has been running a bit.
This car was originally my wife's, and she can't remember the last time it has had it's battery replaced.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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I am having an overcharging issue with my 2000 F350 diesel. It first started when I had a garage check the batteries due to poor starting this winter. They found one reading 6V and I had them replace it. After that the battery light came on. So I had them check it out again and they replaced the other battery. I can't remember if it started before or after the second battery but it started overcharging 16-17 volts according to the dash. I replaced the alternator still overcharging. Since then I have run a 4ga ground from one battery to the alternator and a 4ga ground wire from the other battery to the cab. I also checked most of the stock ground wires which all seem fine. Lastly, I also bought a ford alternator pigtail because one of the wires had cracked insulation and some corrosion. Currently it overcharges unless the battery light comes on which once it does the voltmeter in dash reads normal.
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1997 Expedition ... I've looked through quite a few 4X4 issue threads and haven't seen my issue described yet ..
When in 4X4 high most times all is well but every once in a while the lights on the dash will flash from 4X4 to 4Lo then 4AWD then settle right back where it should be at 4X4. I don't think that the front axle is being affected as the truck doesn't seem to fall out of and then back into front axle lock.
My guess is that this is an electrical issue but will get to the bottom of it and report back.
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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Today I noticed when I was parking at work that my back tail lights don't seem that bright. When I apply the brakes and such or the backup lights are very bright, but just the normal tail lights didn't seem to come off as that bright. At night they may appear brighter but this morning in cloudy overcast sky's with some light snow falling I am not sure if the person behind could have seen my taillights at all. I have a 2003 Impala LS, it's just over 102,000 miles. Is there a way to test to see if your back taillights are bright enough or is there a way to increase how bright they are when on?
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I changed the rear end on my buddies 2003 f150 and now the speedometer is 15 mph fast I was wondering if there is a way for me to calibrate the speedometer..
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1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
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So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
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A few years ago I had the clutch changed on my 1997 F150. Afterwards the cruise control wasn't working. When I brought the truck back to the repair shop I heard the manager tell the mechanic to "attach the clip by the pedal" and that fixed it.
I just had some work done, had to replace the oil pan, and the mechanic had to remove the transmission. Now the cruise control doesn't work. I changed the Pressure switch but it didn't fix the cruise control. What that clip might be that fixed the cruise control last time?
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My alarm and lights started going off one night. By the time I got to it, everything stopped. When I tried to start the next morning, I got nothing. After several tries, horn and lights started again. The only way to stop it was to disconnect battery.
One person told me that it was the key or the ignition not recognizing the key. I was then told that my truck, 97 f150, had no chip in the key so the problem was the computer.
I replaced my computer with a refurbished one. Once I hooked up the battery, the horn was still going, lights flashing and theft light still blinking. Also, not sure if its related, but when I try to use the key in the passenger door it turns, but there is very little resistance and the door does not unlock.
1997 F150
4.6L V8
4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
235,000 Miles
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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