Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Air Filter Assembly Blown?
Jan 24, 2013
I got an 03 extended cab with triton 5.4 to replace my 1995 f150. no plates yet, just parked in drive. moved it around a few times, ran fine. tonight it wouldn't start. dark, cold, impatient etc... couldn't get air filter apart, drilled hole in plastic, added ether and blew it all into the neighbors yard. sounded like a muzzle loader. nothing usable on it. blew filter holder apart and everything inline. my question, do i replace with stock or get one of these breather kits i read about??? Western motor sports, etc....... Any "digs" well, i deserve them. keep in mind i don't need extra horsepower. I'm an HVAC guy and this is my work truck. i care about mileage.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
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I have a broken headlight adjuster assembly, it's a steel bolt with a Plastic nut on it, the Star piece behind the nut is broken. What is the source for this part ?? A Ford part number????
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Tell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
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Just wanted to report another F150 with the blown master cylinder problem and had a few questions regarding the issue. Its a 2014 Screw EcoBoost with about 12500 miles located in Michigan.
I was driving last Friday (6/19) when the low brake fluid dash lamp illuminated. I made it to my final destination, when I began to back into a parking spot the brake pedal dropped to a position about an inch off the floor. Parked the truck and popped the hood to find almost all of the fluid gone. Only having fluid in the rear axle reservoir of the brake circuit. Pulled the vacuum sensor and the booster is filled with fluid..
Called Ford, had it towed to the dealer and its been sitting there ever since.... They have no loaners and have not even looked at it yet. I'm going to assume no parts are in stock just like all of the other threads I have read on here about this issue.
A few questions I have for those of you who have had this problem or have knowledge about it.
1. How long did it take for your truck to be repaired?
2. When the master cylinder seal leaks all of the fluid into the booster and the booster is pulling engine vacuum; does this mean that brake fluid is then pulled into the crankcase of the engine?
Really looking to get my truck back soon cause I love driving it! But the '74 F250 will have to do for now ....
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My 97 f150 5.4 started missing on 5,6 it had antifreeze on top of the spark plugs but i cant figure out where its coming from my truck has been loosing coolant and it seems like the system is holding pressure because every time i take the cap off the radiator overfill i can hear it hissing then i see the antifreeze level plummet there's no visible leaks that i have seen when the truck is running an missing it steams out the exhaust but when its no missing it doesn't seem to be there's no milky oil or anything the thermostat doesn't seem to be leaking either the truck has over heated a couple times due to the antifreeze disappearing or the temp wont move at all then it shoots all the way to hot and cools down within seconds to normal i just put a new thermostat in. Also it sometimes misses on 4 and my exhaust smells like straight gas i put 4 gallons in it got 29 miles out of it .
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I just bought a used 5.4 for my 99' F150 4X4. My current engine has a blown head gasket. Anyway, I was able to hear the engine run before I bought it, and was able to check it out some. (oil, anti-freeze) I was told that this engine was bought from a salvage yard with 50K, and 50K more put on it before I bought it.
I was also told that the intake manifold is newer, from Autozone, and it has newer Accell coils. My question for you all, is ..... What do YOU think I should do otherwise before I install this engine. Oil pump? water pump? seals? ...
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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I have my 4.6L engine on a stand in the garage. I think I have a blown head gasket. I am ready to remove the heads.
My Haynes book says: "Caution:Use the required camshaft retaining fixtures to lock the camshafts and leave the tools in place."
A google search shows nothing. Why, what does it do?
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My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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I just purchased a 2003 F150 Supercrew 4.6 that had been wrecked, but somewhat repaired. I knew the owner said it had a blown head gasket. It has water in the oil (small amount asi it is lightly milky) and water starts dripping from the exhaust after it has run for a few minutes. I did not run it long, but throttled it up to warm the engine. It started dripping soot filled water from the exhaust connections. I bought it to put a 4bt in it anyway, but want to sell the motor with the ability to tell the buyer the skinny on it. I drove it on the trailer and off with no apparent loss of power noticeable.
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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Last weekend my number 4 spark plug blew out while on the highway. The truck stayed on long enough for me to get off the highway and pull over before it died. I towed the truck home. Last night I repaired it with a helicoil and replace the spark plug and coil. Now the truck cranks but won't start. I noticed that my theft light flashes fast and doesn't stop after a few seconds or during cranking. I still haven't tested relays or fuses because it was late after the repair. I will be checking those tonight.
I will be reading and taking suggestions and posting my results tonight while I'm working on the truck. I will be checking the fuel pump and PCM relay tonight. I will also try 2 different keys and checking the Inertia switch on the fuel pump to see if that tripped. The truck is a 2001 F-150 Lariat Supercrew with 150k miles on it. 5.4 liter engine.
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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My 03 5.4 the obd2 port isnt working i have tried 4 bluetooth adapters and a snap on scanner and nothing will connect to the ecm. im having problems and trying to read codes my check engine light isnt on but that don't mean anything. my truck is running really rich and blows a little bit black smoke when i rev it up after its been idling a few min and getting horrible gas mileage again. yesterday i went to start it and i had to crank on it 4 time before it finally started and then when i reved it up it almost died on the way back down but it caught itself. then today i go out and it starts right up and runs fine but its still running rich but i still cant get an obd2 adapter to connect to the ecm. I checked the fuse and its not blown my cigarette plug and the power port both work. i really dont know where to start in trying to figure out this problem. Right now iI don't really want to take it to a shop right now.
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I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
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I've had the car diagnosed on a VAS 5051. Everything is fine, and the car should start (it does on easy-start). However, it doesn't start. I've disconnected the pipes from the fuel filter assembly and fuel is coming to the filter but nothing is returning. What should I diagnose first, Is something blocked, or could it be to do with the injectors?
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I have been having some issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter, started out running rough, then hydrolocked with no serious damage, blown intake manifold gasket, fixed that, alternator over charging do to bad voltage regulator, fixed that. and airbag code 52, still working on that, as well as failure to connect when trying to do diagnostic scan. now I am wondering if the engine diagnostic is still even working. still running good just a very slight vibration when warms up. I am not getting any code. or my check engine light is not showing any codes. What I want to do is force a code. What would be the safest way to force a code or force engine light to give a code?
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This is a 2003 F150 4.6 liter Romeo engine with leak behind the oil filter. I can't tell if the leak is from the oil pressure sensor or the adapter behind it. I think it is from the adapter where it mates with the engine. My question is how the heck do I get it out to put in a seal? I can see one bolt but can't image it being held by one bolt.
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