Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: AC / Clutch Bearing Making Noise - New Starter And Still Won't Start
Oct 27, 2013
I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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Here is what happened. I bought the truck used a few years back. The A/C clutch always made a clunking noise when it engaged first thing in the morning but then when restarting later in the day no noise. No noise either once it started up, the compressor ran quietly.
Then I recently went camping, it was just this past weekend and we had a bunch of rain. So I had on the front defrost mode on the heater for the windshield. I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes. The wife noticed that the truck was overheating (I have a Taurus fan installed and the fuse blew on the controller thats another story for another time, I got that fixed. I think it was because the clutch was trying to engage but couldnt and it made the fan controller overheat and the fuse blew) So I popped the hood and it was smoking under the hood. So I turned off the defroster and hear some noise under the hood. The AC clutch was not engaging when on the defroster mode and is making a clunking/grinding noises all the time now.
When I returned home I checked the fuse for the AC clutch and it was blown. So I replaced the fuse and it engaged the clutch by turning on the A/C, the clutch engaged and the compressor sounded fine and the clunking noise went away, it also blew cold air all the time the A/C was on, with this it looks like the compressor is fine.
Then I tried the defroster setting again to simulate what had happened at the campground and the clutch was engaging at first then started to slip and I could smell it burning. So I shut it off. The A/C clutch is still making a clunking /grinding noise noise and wont engage at all now even when turning on the AC.
So for a second opinion from all of you, does it look like I can get away with just replacing the clutch assembly? Also does the clutch assembly come with the new magnet, bearing, and plate?
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Okay so in my 99 f150 ecsb 4x4 i believe i spun a bearing. its making an awful noise. I was wondering if it was possible to drop the oil pan while the truck is in the air and change the spun bearing. is this possible to do? with 205,000 miles on it...
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We are working on a 97 f250 light duty 4.6 4x4 5spd. Trying to figure out where a bearing noise is coming from in front end. Replaced both front hub bearings from napa. 150 each... the noise is still there. someone said could be cv shafts... although ive never heard a cv shaft make this noise i replaced them anyway cuz one was clickin last time was in the woods. bearing noise is still there..... in a long bank turn to the left the noise goes away till start to straighten out. while replacing the half shafts I grabbed the plates the shafts bolt to and spun them and checked for slack. none found. front diff's full with no leaks. as title says.... what next?
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
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2000 Explorer making what I would call a bearing humm. I have replaced both front wheel bearings over the past year. When I jack up the front and check for play everything is tight, I don't get any noise by spinning the tires. While driving I put the tranny in neutral and still get the hummm sound, so I don't think it is the tranny.
The sound definitely changes with the speed of the car. Turning the wheel or engaging the transfer case do not change the sound. I have had my son crawl around the car while I'm driving and he said the sound is not coming from the back, for sure the front but can't tell if it is specific to one side of the other.
Where do I go from here? This is my daughters daily driver and its been a great car, 148000 miles and no issues at all so far. I would like to figure it out so I can feel good about her driving the car.
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I have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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Ford F150 truck, when starting, the starter will turn over strongly for half a second then just abruptly makes a loud noise and stops. It won't ever fully crank. Is this just a bad starter?
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I have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6l triton that just started to make a squealing noise. I have replaced a couple of pulleys that were bad but that did not get rid of the problem. It only makes the noise when I give it some gas and it is coming from around the fan clutch area.
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Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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My issue started as simply a lack of air conditioning. Upon initial inspection I noticed that the compressor clutch is not engaging when I turn the ac on. So I figured the next step would be to see if I am getting voltage to the clutch. My Chilton book says to test this with the truck on, so I disconnected the harness from the compressor, attached my meter to the cable, and attempted to start my truck. I've found that the truck wont start with this cable disconnected. It will turn over but just never starts. Also the fuel pump comes on as it should.
I've repeated this several times. It always starts with no problem when the compressor clutch is connected. I understand that there is some monitoring circuit with the pcm so maybe that has something to do with it but I'm pretty fuzzy on how that works. Upon further inspection, it looks like I should be able to test my ac signal with the engine off, so maybe that's not such a big deal, but this whole truck not starting business is blowing my mind.
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2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
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I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
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2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
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2000 f150 182000 makes a rumbling noise from rear end mainly when turning at slow speeds. Thought it might of been axle bearings so replaced them this weekend to no avail. I have the 9.75 limited slip rear end but what I found out this weekend is that the axle bearings are for 8.8 , the 9.75 bearings was to big.
So does this mean I have 9.75 ring gear with 8.8 axles ? I have been using royal purple 75-140 with no friction modifier because royal purple says its it there.
But after doing some research Im going to go get some friction modifier and see if it works . So my question is how much of a pain is it to replace the clutch packs? What if I wanted to just put a different differential in and do away with limited slip ? Or go with a different aftermarket limited slip diff. ? what are my options , etc.
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