Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: ABS Light On With Rusted Rear Brake Line?
Apr 14, 2013
When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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I've read that a scan tool is required to bleed the ABS unit. A brake line has rusted out on the vehicle which I can replace, though not looking forward to it. The ABS unit is disabled by pulling the fuse. Do I still need to have a tech bleed the abs system? Of course I will bleed all four lines at the wheel cylinders and calipers.
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Found out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 (5.4) 173k miles. I bought the truck from family about 6 months ago and from time to time if you stepped on the brake pedal to hard (not locking up, but pretty hard) it would feel like the passenger rear tire would lock up. He said that there was an issue with the automatic adjuster on that side. Here lately the ABS light on the dash has been coming on every couple of days, of course on the next restart it's off. Could these two issues be related?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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The fuel filler neck on my truck is very rusted. I'm very concerned because if it gets a hole in it I think I wouldn't be able to put gas in the tank. It's completely exposed to anything that the tire throws at it. Is there any way to protect it?
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hey haven't been on this forum since I had my 1995 f150 (miss that strait sixer). Here is my question I bought a 2001 ford f150 supercrew with rusted rocker panels a year ago now there gone I have some tube steps attached wondering what the panel is that they attach to cause that seems pretty rusty as well and wondering if there is anyway of replacing it and if so where can I find it? I found all kinds of the outer rocker but not that inner rocker? if that is what you call it.
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On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
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Is the brake light supposed to come on when the E-brake is depressed? It's not right now, bulb?
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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Ford F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
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I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
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