Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: ABS Light Comes On - DTC C1229 / C1230
Nov 18, 2002
1997 and up F-series trucks. If your ABS light comes on, it's about a 90% chance it's a bad rear axle speed sensor. If you scan it (or have it scanned for you) and the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) C1229 or C1230 come up, thats probably your problem. I'm a Ford mechanic and I repair about 2 or 3 of these a day. The magic number seems to be 40,000 miles, but I've seen them go sooner or long after that. It's VERY easy to change, it's on top of the axle housing. Just disconnect the electrical connector and remove the 3/8 bolt and it's outta' there. If you don't have access to diagnostic equipment to clear the codes afterwards, simply drive the vehicle a little and the computer will clear the light from the dash. The computer is constantly performing system checks and will realize the sensor is working correctly and shut off the light.
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I have had an intermittent ABS light for a while now. Since I have gotten the injector o-ring issues, and oil consumption problems nailed down, I am starting to check other things off the list. I have 2 codes:
C1229 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Coherency Fault
C1230 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure
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Used a 2010 or newer SD axle for there Coil conversion ? I did and am having abs issues. It's to cold to spend a lot of time outside figuring it out . I have these codes c1155, c1230,c1233,c1234. The right front sensor is brand new and the speedo works fine. Are the hubs maybe not compatible? Sensors plugged right in.
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when i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
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I have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
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Just wondering if this is possible, if the ABS light come's on now and then,
And the speedo bounces, as it does, could it trigger the dreaded OD flashing light.
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I have a 1997 Ford F150 4x4 4.6L extended cab with 180000 miles. Rusty but trusty. Now I have a different issue. The 4x4 light will not come on at all when in 4 hi or 4 low in with the transmission in nuetral. The things I have done are check every single fuse the truck has, all are in working order. I have replaced the shifter switch with a known working used one, no luck. When I turn the I hear clicking from the relay in the middle of the dash, but the 4x4 light does not come on. The front driveshaft is able to be spun when I have the in the 4 hi or 4 lo position.
I have pulled the GEM module out to see if I had the dreaded windshield leak issue, and it appears that all connections look great, and there does not appear to be any burn marks on the circuitry. I also tested to see if the vacuum solenoids were getting the correct signals. It only stays on 2 wheel vacuum (by testing the ground connection to the solenoids), it does not switch when I turn. So at this point I am under the belief that I have an issue with the transfer case shift motor or something related, and that when it does not work, it does not give the signal to the vacuum solenoids to switch or allow the 4x4 light to come on. If I am correct, how do I test to see what is the issue at the transfer case?
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I have an 03 F150 supercrew FX4 and I noticed today that my ABS light has came on and won't go off. I know I need to replace the front pads and rotors, but what will cause the light to come on?
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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TRUCK- 1997 F-150 4x4 5.4L 180,000 miles ( great truck ) The ABS light came on yesterday and wont go off. I checked all the wires I could see from under thr truck (looked good). Then I replaced the rear diff abs sensor, no luck. The omhs on the old one was 1200 and i guess that is in range. The light comes on when I start along with the 4x4 and low range light the 4x4 and low light go off and ABS flickers and comes right back with the truck still in park. Where are the front wheel sensors and how hard are they to get at? Can they be tested , fixed, or replaced from a junkyard?
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As the title says my abs light is on. My drive way is really steep so when i pull in before i put it in park i put on my ebrake because i heard that save ware and tear on the trany. Today when i got in it to leave I released the break and put it into reverse and i had nothing it wouldn't even role backwards. so i put it back in park and then into reverse again, and again nothing. so i revede it up a little and there was a huge clunk and then i had reverse but my abs light came on.
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I have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
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I have a 2003 F150. When the temperature is hot outside and I have the air conditioner on the Gauge will sweep and the ABS light and battery light will go on. The battery gauge will go to high charge. When RPM is dropped (idle) or when the RPMs are increased to pass a vehicle, everything returns to normal. Power windows will not work but all other functions due. It will boil my battery if ran to long like this. I have changed the alternation and battery. Only happens in the summer?
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I installed a new alternator now the check engine light is on....
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Yesterday I replaced the bulbs in my heater controls, today I have the Airbag light on, flashing 2/7. And when I turn off the passenger airbag, the "OFF" light does not come on. I've heard if the "OFF" light goes out, you replace the switch, would that possibly cause this code?
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The "service engine soon" light on my 2003 F150 Supercrew 4.6L (225k miles) just came on. The code it's throwing is P0171.
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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My 2000 F-150 odometer light goes on and off intermittent. How to fix this?
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2002 F150 XLT Supercrew 4x4 5.4L V-8, non-7700 payload
Was feeling a little grinding in the front end a couple weeks ago. Turned out to be simple, brake pads were low, and the wear indicator was causing the mild vibration (though no noise). Replaced the pads, all was good.
Then in the middle of a 50 mile drive around the area, the ABS light comes on. Found the front right sensor was bad. Replacement. Put it on, ABS light went off, all is good. Drove probably 30 miles over the course of the next day, then light came back on. Tested the same sensor, and get no resistance. So the new one is bad.
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I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L 4x4. I was driving my son to work and the truck died. My son-in-law gave me a jump and as soon as he removed the jumper cables my truck died. We took the alternator to Auto Zone and had it tested, twice they tested it and it passed. We took the battery to them for a battery test and it was dead. Got a new battery and put it in the truck and the truck starts. The voltage on the battery was 12.4 off and when we turned the truck on the voltage went to 12 so we replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator and now I get 13 volts on battery while it is off and on the voltage goes a little above 15 and the charge light will not go off. What to look for to try and fix this problem. What can cause the light to stay on? I can push down on the belt a little but my son-in-law says the belt is ok, it does have a few cracks in it.
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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