Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: ABS And Battery Light Will Go On When AC Is On
Jul 2, 2012
I have a 2003 F150. When the temperature is hot outside and I have the air conditioner on the Gauge will sweep and the ABS light and battery light will go on. The battery gauge will go to high charge. When RPM is dropped (idle) or when the RPMs are increased to pass a vehicle, everything returns to normal. Power windows will not work but all other functions due. It will boil my battery if ran to long like this. I have changed the alternation and battery. Only happens in the summer?
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Not mine, but the guy claims his trucks battery light and CEL are on with the key off??? He's battery goes dead (it is new) and only 12.3 volts running with it revved up. My inclination would be alternator, but how can those 2 light in the dash be on with the key off? He did replace the ignition switch.... nothing ...same condition.
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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1999 F150
automatic, v8 4wd 430K miles Low Battery light is on.
Other than the usual things to check: battery cable connections, corrosion at contact points, checking with a voltmeter, having battery tested, having alternator tested for volts and amps... are there other known issues with this year model/setup?
Also, once the battery is changed, is there a way for the codes to be cleared out or reset without having to hook it up to a computer?
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My 97 with a 4.6 has had some charging issues. It started when I left a trailer hooked up with dome lights on (ignition to the on position, not running, for the trailer hot circuit) and it drained the battery. I boosted it to move it and put the charger on it. It ran fine till the other night (a week later) and on the road the CEL light came on. I didn't get another mile till the lights dimmed and the dash lights went out and the radio started flashing. I turned off the radio and heater to get home (another 2 miles). On the rest of the way it would drop to 8volts then up to 13-14 and the headlights would get bright. Then it would drop back down.
The whole time the battery lamp in the cluster never came on (forgot there was one). I pulled the alternator and took it in to have it tested. They said it tested fine. I re-installed it and fired the truck up and the battery lamp would fade in and out. I put a charger on the battery again overnight and now when it runs the battery lamp only comes on at idle and goes off when I increase the RPMS past about 1,400.
Is it possible that the alternator is going bad and the tester was running it at high enough RPMs to generate proper output?
I made sure to check the wires on the connectors going to the alternator when I re-installed it and made sure there was enough tension on the connectors before putting them on the pins. I've also thoroughly cleaned the battery clamps and inspected the wires at that point for corrosion. I haven't traced it back. If it is related at all, I had it in a few weeks ago for tires so I had an oil change done and they replaced the serp belt. Should I have it tested elsewhere, should I start tracing wires for corrosion?
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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It all started......when I got onto the highway and glanced down at the gauge cluster and noticed my battery light was on and kind of flashy (clipping, so to speak)...and that I was in 2nd gear...whoops. (My tach's busted, else I probably would have noticed that sooner.)
Quick correction and things are right as rain. The next day I go out and make 3-4 stops with less than 10 minutes of drive time between each. I'm almost home (battery light's been on intermittently since last night) and the idle slows slightly and the windows no longer work. I make it home and the gauge cluster is dead by now, but leave the truck running, grab a socket wrench and pry off the positive battery lead. Truck dies.
I'm thinking alternator, so I pull the battery and charge it inside, then pull the alternator the next day and have it tested. Tests fine (putting out 1430 (is that mA?) per O'Reilley's). Crap. Cleaned all connections (including taking off the negative terminal grounded to the starter and shining it up a little, then pulling the connections off the firewall and sanding them lightly), checked 20A inline blade fuse, both 175A fusible links, but it's still not charging. If I want to go anywhere, I have to pull the battery and charge it inside.
I was thinking it might be the voltage regulator, but I just called O'Reilley's and they told me that the test on the alternator included the regulator. I just confirmed that the belt on the pulley is okay. What did I most likely fry that caused my battery light to come on? (97 4.6L)....
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F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
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On occasion my battery (new) goes dead. Sounds like a battery leak? How do I test for this? I have a Cnc odb2 tester, test light, multi meter and alternator tester.
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Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
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My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
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I had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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Had a little fender bender. Right after that i noticed the battery red light was on. When I got it home I took the solenoid off the firewall (all the battery wires meet here). When you put 12 volts to the small terminal, the solenoid pulls in and the two big terminals are connected together. That works. When installed on the truck and startup, I have no 12v voltage at the small terminal. Don't have a diagram, but service manual says something about fuse #14 under the dash feeding the "battery cutout".. Checked that fuse and its o.k. .... where does the 12 v signal to the solenoid come from ? I assume somehow it triggers after the alternator starts charging ?
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