got the 4.6, AC clutch is just winding like crazy, so Im going to do a cheap fix and jus bypass the pully. Now do I need to remove the compressor or can I just get a belt for a 4.6 without AC and just not use it?
View 1 RepliesAn idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
View 2 RepliesMy 99 5.4 V8 2wd truck is having AC problems. Everything started this time last year when my ac pulley bearing went out, I replaced it (pain in the neck) and everything worked fine until a few weeks ago. I was lubricating under the truck and i noticed the Clutch Hub and bolt had fell off. I went to a junkyard and took a new hub and bolt and 3 spacers and installed it in my truck. I tightened the bolt as hard as I could get it. The next few weeks the air was colder but i noticed the hub always spun with the pulley. It didn't matter if the ac was on or off the hub spun with the pulley 100% of the time.
I tried loosening it last weekend and it just spun freely never engaging it just rattled there. I got frustrated so i just tick the hub off. Now the pulley on the end of the compressor is just spinning with not hub bolted on it. I don't know what to do and i don't want to pay ford 1grand to put a new clutch and compressor in. The high pressure line also seems to be very greasy almost like there is an ac coolant leak there. I don't know if its bad to have the hub engaged 100% of the time or if its better to just not have one on there.
Also whenever I drive around town from 10-35 miles an hour my truck squeaks as it goes over bumps, it sounds like a dogs chew tow it is driving me crazy and i cant replicate it by moving my truck around when its in park and I don't know where its coming from. My truck has 141K on it I'm in college so I have to fix everything myself pretty much.
Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
View 7 RepliesBeen trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
View 13 Replies1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
View 10 Replies99 AC compressor clutch pulley locked up. I replaced the serp belt because it failed, then noticed the AC outer pulley was locked up. I could turn the inner clutch assembly with the 14 mm nut with no problem. So do I need to replace compressor, or can clutch assembly. be repaired on car?
View 4 RepliesMy AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
My buddy and I just rebuilt a 4.2 V-6 and stuck it into a '97 F-150 RCSB 4x4 which somebody gave him. It had been sitting with a bum motor for about 7 years. While the engine was out, we also installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We got the truck running yesterday by pull starting it (battery is not holding a charge).
The clutch does not seem to be engaging, as I had to pull the shifter out of gear so that the truck would not stall. The clutch does not seem to have a lot of pressure, but the slave cylinder is full. Is there a way to bleed these clutch systems? Is there anything else we should look at? I have not dealt with the M5OD before, and neither has he.
Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
View 3 Repliessoo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
View 3 RepliesWhat type of fan clutch silicone fluid is used in case you need to replace some during removal?(99 ford f150 5.4 vin L)
View 5 RepliesI have a '99 f150 singlecab xl sport 4.2 2wd 5spd with 139,xxx miles on her. Shes's a good truck, but second gear is shot, I can only get into it by double clutching, and that only sometimes works. I have a couple questions, the first one being what do yall think the problem is. To me and my friends it seems like the syncro mesh. Second, if it is something major, is it even worth saving the truck? I know she isn't worth a ton but I hate to go through the hassle of selling and buying a car.
View 1 RepliesI replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
View 1 RepliesHow can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
View 9 RepliesA few years ago I had the clutch changed on my 1997 F150. Afterwards the cruise control wasn't working. When I brought the truck back to the repair shop I heard the manager tell the mechanic to "attach the clip by the pedal" and that fixed it.
I just had some work done, had to replace the oil pan, and the mechanic had to remove the transmission. Now the cruise control doesn't work. I changed the Pressure switch but it didn't fix the cruise control. What that clip might be that fixed the cruise control last time?
2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
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