Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4x4 Will Engage But Only Disengage If Reset GEM
Jul 24, 2016
I recently bought a 1997 f150 4x4 with shift on the fly. I bought the truck from an old man who parked it outside his house. I love the truck, but the 4x4 has been finiky. I have done a ton of research and i have done a bunch of testing. The vacuum system is working correctly. I have tested the solenoids and the front axle actuator is working properly.
There is some kind of electrical issue. It might be the GEM (i really hope not), but it might be the shift on fly switch itself.
The 4x4 will engage, but when i turn the switch to 2h nothing seems to happen. Driving in reverse doesn't work. But sometimes it switch from 4h to 2h, just by turning the truck off and restarting it. If restarting doesn't work, then i have to pull the 5 fuse, let it sit, then put it back in. I read that this resets the GEM. (Number 5 fuse, middle row, 5th from the top).
Resetting the GEM usually does it, but not all the time. Sometimes it will still be in 4x4 again after resetting the gem. And then what is really weird, after driving it in 2h (after the gem reset) then turned it off and restarting it, it will go back into 4x4. All this happens with the switch set to 2h. So I have been having to reset the GEM, each time i restart it. (This was going on for a day or so.)
Any easy testing i can do? Do you think it could be the switch on the dash, or more likely to be the gem? I hope it isn't the gem. I don't want to have to pull a fuse each time to drive my truck.
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I have a 2000 ford f-150 4 wheel drive that will not disengage, I am down here in south fla where and don't put it in 4 wheel drive much, but yesterday I put in 4 wheel drive and I heard the click click and it engaged I put it in drive and drove it about 5-10 miles parked it and turned the switch to 2 wheel high and got out , got back in the truck turn her back on and the 4 by 4 lamp came one went off then came back on and stayed on and it still in 4 wheel drive and wont disengage.
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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owner of a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon, 6 spd manual, 32k km's. (leased) I'm having repeated persistent parking brake failures (won't engage, or won't disengage).
-About two months ago the parking brake would not disengage, error message on the MFD, yellow warning light and warning tone. Called roadside, finally got it disengaged by removing one terminal from the battery. Took it straight to the dealership, they "fixed" it by resetting the computer.
- The next day I have auto hold engaged, parking brake did not disengage when I turned the car back on. Had to turn engine on/off several times before it disengaged.
- Took it to the dealership again, had to get a rental car over a weekend while they diagnosed the problem. This time they changed some wiring and replaced the parking brake button.
- Next day the parking brake engaged ok but wouldn't disengage. Same routine on/off/on/off to get it to disengage.
- Back to the dealership again, they decided to replace the brake control module but didnt have stock.
- Last week I took the car back in (4th trip for this issue), they replaced the module and said it was fixed. Next day my wife got stuck in a parking lot with the parking brake stuck on.
- Called the dealership last friday and asked them to come pick it up this time, as my wife and I are sick of the inconvenience of this issue. (we share the car, both work, and also have a child's daycare to schedule around)
The problem is intermittent but not difficult to cause a fault. Can be caused when engaging, disengaging, or when the PB kicks in from auto hold when turning the car off. I try not to use it, but sometimes is necessary (parking on hills etc).
The dealership doesnt seem to know the problem and are just throwing parts at it. What recourse do I have for repeated problems? The manual recommends using this parking brake EVERY time the car is parked, so I don't think it's too much to ask to have it working properly.
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Also, Park didn't engage and the speedometer acted like it was engaged in RN and D. No movement what so ever. I think it might be the shift motor that shifted part way and is stuck in between gears. Is this possible? I drove fine to the dirt road and I haven't had problems other then the shift motor being touchy. I don't want to pay for a new tranny if it might be the shift motor.
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I have a 2003 F150 5.4liter 4x4 and when it is cold I can not get the 4x4 to engage. It is a manual shift for the transfer case not electronic. It shifts but does not activate the 4x4 when it is cold. The 4x4 does work when the temp is about 30 degrees or better. Where to start?
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I've got a problem with my 4x4 not engaging. I've been ready and re-reading all the related posts and threads and am still confused. Here goes. Early in the fall I had no problem shifting in or out of 4wd. Then when it got well below freezing up here, it stopped working. I had it in a warm shop and all of a sudden it worked fine. After sitting outside again it wouldn't work.
When it was warm, I had no problem shifting in and out of 4x4, dash lights functioning as normal. As it got colder it only seemed to work if I really pulled quite hard on the stick and the 4Low indicator didn't work but 4Low was obviously engaged. Now after another day or two outside, nothing happens at all. When the diff does engage, shifting out of 4x4 is never a problem.
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I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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1999 F-150 Sport 4x4
So the deal is I had to use a slim jim to open up my truck door the other day. Door still locks/unlocks fine, only not with the key. Key will still fit & turn the barrel without any prob. just doesn't engage the lock. Took the door panel off and it looks as if the Rod that connects the inside of the key barrel to the lower (part)? not familiar w/name. has come loose.
Looking for a diagram/picture of how it should look to get everything put back together so the key'll work again. Sucks unlocking passenger side and climbing over to open driver door.
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Just tried to engage my 4x4 today to see if it was working and nothing. It is the electronic shift on the fly. I started checking the vacuum hoses and found one that looked like a mouse chewed threw part of it and repaired that line. Still no 4x4. So...there are no lights coming on, no sound from the transfer case shift motor and no noise of any kind when cycling the shift ....
I pulled the connection apart at the shift motor to test for voltage with 2hi and truck running and no 12volt. I tested all the pins but not sure if i did it correctly. Also the shift motor itself is rusty on the outside casing. What pin to test for voltage?
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I have 1999, F150 5.4L with electric 4wd shift. I put it in 4high just fine and smooth. Now 4lo on other hand rough shift if it goes in 4lo, sometimes won't engage but 4 high works fine. What's the cause
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This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
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I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
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