Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4x4 Relay Clicks And Light Comes On - Front Driveshaft Spins But Front Wheels Don't
Apr 10, 2016
I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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Can I do this without damage to anything?
'97 Expedition (but the F150 forum seems more mechanically incline, no offense to the Expedition forum).
I'm trying to find the cause of a vibration in what I think is the front drivetrain. I was almost positive that it was the front driveshaft universal joints. I jacked the truck up off all fours and took her for a spin. The noise seemed to be coming from the from u-joint.
I took the u-joints off and they were still nicely lubricated (after 230,000 miles). My heart sank since this probably not the root of my problem.
I'm surely going to put new u-joints in but think I'll get them from the dealer tomorrow (if the OEM stuff lasted this long, why buy aftermarket, even though it's the same stuff? I dunno, just my OCD kicking in.)
So, I thought I would take the truck for a drive without the front driveshaft today (in 2wd of course) to see if the vibration was gone. Can I do this?
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Here's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
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Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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When I turn the switch on the front wheels don't engage. I replaced the two vacuum solenoids on the firewall no change. I replaced the actuator motor on the transfer case and everything worked....once. Tried to go around the back of the house thought I was in 4x4 but front wheels not engaging again. buried in mud. I let it set there overnight. Went out earlier started it and put it in 4x4 and it started puling out front wheels engaged. As soon as I gave it a little gas the front wheels became disengaged and it wouldn't go anywhere. I made several more attempts and no luck. I did the vacuum test where you turn the heater on panel and if there's a vacuum leak somewhere the heater blower will default to defrost. It passed this test so I'm assuming there is no leak anywhere. Why it worked right after I replaced the transfer case motor and again only after I got stuck and it set in the mud overnight?
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Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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2002 F150 XLT Supercrew 4x4 5.4L V-8, non-7700 payload
Was feeling a little grinding in the front end a couple weeks ago. Turned out to be simple, brake pads were low, and the wear indicator was causing the mild vibration (though no noise). Replaced the pads, all was good.
Then in the middle of a 50 mile drive around the area, the ABS light comes on. Found the front right sensor was bad. Replacement. Put it on, ABS light went off, all is good. Drove probably 30 miles over the course of the next day, then light came back on. Tested the same sensor, and get no resistance. So the new one is bad.
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I have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
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I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
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I really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Some say the front drive shaft should turn by hand in 2h and some say it shouldn't.... I have an 06 FX4, with auto locking hubs (meaning if I want 4H i turn from 2H to 4H). I've been getting a terrible shake at 55mph (yes I've read the forums on that too, not my question) .
So I crawled underneath to look at rear driveshaft, u joints, etc..., and by chance I grabbed the front driveshaft to pull myself forward to check out everything else, and it didn't turn......
I twisted a little and the shafts going to both front wheels turned. Now shouldn't these turn freely in 2H?....The light to 4H never comes on when I switch it, but it is engaged (or else I'd never have gotten unstuck....several times)... Am I stuck in 4H and just didn't know? .
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I have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
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I'm trying to figure out how much of my front end I need to rebuild. 130,000 mi on the truck. About 1/2 of those miles are off road. 2008 F350 FX4. Stock. Original front wheel bearing unit and hubs. I was under the truck today and before I put it on jacks I decided to see how much play was in the front end components.
I noticed when checking out the passenger side front axle at the u-joint that I was able to spin the whole u-joint and bearing with the wheels still on the ground. I wasn't able to do the same for the driver's side. Both hubs were set to auto although I know that the ESOF doesn't work. Is this normal? Am I supposed to be able to spin the axle with the wheels on the ground?
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My Car: 1989 Plymouth Colt Hatchback (similar to Mitsubushi Mirage); 4 cyl. 1.5 liter fuel injection; 93,000 miles.
Problem: Check engine light comes on & main relay clicks on & off when starting the engine cold. Holding down the gas & keeping the engine RPM's up keeps it from stalling out until the engine warms up. After that, everything is fine.
The problem isn't in the main relay, because we've tried replacing that, and it's okay. Either the engine control computer or something else is sending the main relay a signal to shut down. We know that the engine control computer has gotten wet, and there has been some corrosion there. That's clearly not good, and we're now protecting the computer from moisture, but is that really the problem?
My mechanic thinks that the processor in the computer that controls only the cold starting sequence is no good, and that the only thing to do is get a new computer (if that's even possible). Is it possible that an engine sensor of some kind is not working properly when it's cold, and is sending either the main relay or the computer a signal to shut down the engine?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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