Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4x4 Only Locking In When Rolling Not From A Stop
Jan 28, 2014
My 4x4 only locks in when i lock it in and then go drive around, and i know its locked in when it gets hard to turn on the road. So i stop and play with it in 4x4 to see if it will go into 4 hi and it does but then after about 5-10 minutes it disengages again. I've checked the top portion of my vacuum lines, replaced my actuator on the front diff and I've made shore that my selonoids are working, and they are. I'm lost.
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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Just bought 1998 F150 XLT and will probably have ongoing questions. Here's one....
Is there supposed to be a separate key for the factory tailgate lock? I tried the ignition/door key but it doesn't seem to work.
Either I am missing a key, the lock is jammed from lack of use, or I have a different tailgate than the original. Tailgate looks origin
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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Last weekend I was cutting wood and put my 2001 F150 into four wheel drive for the first time in a long time. I did it "just in case". Anyway, now my fuel mileage really took a nosedive. Is it possible one of the hubs did not unlock? If so, how can I test? Common problem?? 215,000 and going strong!!!
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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I just bought a 2001 f150 supercrew. I was told that the locking mechanism didn't work right so I took off the door panel. I can tell when using the power locks that the actuator is weak and probably needs replacing. I also noticed that there is not cable or rod going to the actual door lock, that is to say where you put the key in the door to unlock or lock the door. Need a picture of what this locking system should look like? I assume that for some reason I am missing the rod that goes from the actuator to the door lock. And I can't just look at the passenger side because it is the same way.
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I have a 1999 F150 Supercab, 2wd. I just replaced the front rotors, calipers, and pads. Before I did this, the front right caliper was locking up completely. Now, after the new stuff is installed, the truck pulls very hard to the left when braking. The harder you brake, the harder it pulls left. What should I look at next?
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last weekend I was cutting wood and put my 2001 F150 into four wheel drive for the first time in a long time. I did it "just in case". Anyway, now my fuel mileage really took a nosedive. Is it possible one of the hubs did not unlock? If so, how can I test? Common problem?? 215,000 and going strong
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I have a 2003 ford f150 supercrew. The problems that I am having is first, my door locks will unlock just fine on the key fob and on the door switch inside the cab but they will not lock at all. I've checked the fuses and everything and cant find the problem. it did this one other time then one day there was a pop from in the dash and they started working.
The second issue that I am having is my 4x4 doesn't work all the time. i turn the switch on the dash and the 4x4 light comes on and i can hear a click but then i have nothing so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was probably the shift fork but he wouldn't know til he took it apart. so i decided to hold off then the 4x4 worked fine for a couple weeks if it was my shift fork would my 4x4 still work sometimes? could these problems be related?
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2003 supercrew. Could this be because of a switch, fuse, etc?
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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I have an 01 Passat (old body style) and I know that there is a function on the door that if you use the key to unlock the car you can roll down all the windows that way. The key lock on my door is broken though and has been since I go the car 2 years ago.
For some reason all the sudden now ever time I open my door all the windows roll down. I'm not sure how to stop it or turn off the system. Luckily it hasn't happened in the rain, yet, but I would like to fix it before that happens.
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I have a 97 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, A4LD, 68k mi. with P0171 and P0174 codes, lean fuel mixture banks 1 and 2. The truck will rev up and down from 500-1000 RPM when Im rolling in Drive. When I accelerate, its fine, but when I let off the gas and roll it starts revving again causing the truck to shake. I replaced plugs and wires before the codes (1-2 months ago). After the codes came I replaced the fuel filler neck (not because of the codes), cleaned the air filter, cleaned MAF, changed fuel filter, and checked fuel pressure which was at 29psi so I replaced the fuel pump. Is there any common causes for this? Cures?
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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I've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
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I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
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I'm getting a CLUNK when coming to a stop with my truck.
If I shut off the overdrive while coming to a stop it doesn't do it. Or if I manually shift it down a gear.
I read on here it could be a U-joint or the yoke or something and maybe something needs greased.
Anyway I crawled under the truck and it looks like I need a special socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear end.
What type of socket it this? No grease fittings on my U-joints. What's causing this CLUNK as well?
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I've recently had problems with my truck running 97 f150 4.2L.The latest episode is it stalling when coming to a stop. It will start right back up, I've checked for codes and found none, I have changed the fuel and air filters and I have tested the fuel pressure.(I have a video of the test however I don't know how to upload it.) Key on engine off it pumps up to 30 immediately on the gauge. key on engine running gauge shows a steady 32. I am really at a loss for what to check next. I really need this truck dependable again ASAP my wife is scared to drive it.
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