Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4x4 Not Disengaging - Truck Is Stuck In 4Lo
Jan 18, 2015
1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
View 10 Replies1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
View 10 RepliesI have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
View 1 RepliesMy buddy and I just rebuilt a 4.2 V-6 and stuck it into a '97 F-150 RCSB 4x4 which somebody gave him. It had been sitting with a bum motor for about 7 years. While the engine was out, we also installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We got the truck running yesterday by pull starting it (battery is not holding a charge).
The clutch does not seem to be engaging, as I had to pull the shifter out of gear so that the truck would not stall. The clutch does not seem to have a lot of pressure, but the slave cylinder is full. Is there a way to bleed these clutch systems? Is there anything else we should look at? I have not dealt with the M5OD before, and neither has he.
having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
I had some starting issues a little bit ago, but got those sorted out- I installed a new ICP a few days ago and haven't had any more issues. We came up to the mountains last night (got down to about 35), and now it won't start this morning after 3 GP cycles. So I tested the GPR, and the always hot post was, well, always hot. I tested the other post with ignition on, and it had nothin.
Luckily I had a new GPR, so I swapped it out and everything tested normal on both posts. Still won't start. I'm getting white smoke so I know there's fuel (plus my pressure gauge is at about 58 psi). What else am I missing? I've also tested all the fuses....
In my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
View 14 RepliesI have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
View 6 Repliesi just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
View 9 RepliesI now purchased a 1997 Ford F150, I bought it with the past owner saying it needs a transmission but it drives nice until I get to about 35mph, at which point it feels as if the front diff is stuck in 4wd and it shakes violently, I have read other forums and was hopeful that it was the transfercase issue where you take the transfercase motor off and turn it into 2wd manually and it didn't seem to change anything, it sounds like it is trying to change from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low, but it doesn't seem to sound like it is actually changing anything, the turning on dry pavement does change after switching it but it still shakes and feels like the front end is keeping it from being in 2wd, as I have done very little work on Fords, in the past and I do like the feel of this truck and would love to fix it myself and not take it to someone to have it fixed.
View 6 RepliesWell I was trying out my four wheel drive today and it worked fine until I went to turn off switch, it would not cut off it is a 98 F150 switch is located on dash. It is stuck in four wheel high!
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 RepliesI have just put in another transmission and the truck will not shift out of first gear, it will go in reverse and first and reverse. The guy who had it before me had the same problem when he put in a transmission with only about 40-60,000 miles he assumed it was a bad transmission. And that's how I ended up with the truck. We have so far installed yet another transmission and it is doing the same not shifting out of first that it did for him. There is no cel or blinking overdrive lights, checked fluid levels, checked selinoids, gonna purchase a used computer for diagnostics, I am stumped with limited knowledge. The dealership said the transmission should be the e40d I'm reading it should have the 4r100 is that correct? The truck is the 5.4L v8 with 74,000 original miles. Truck sounds amazing. I really want to fix it.
View 2 RepliesI have removed the panel cover; cables are out - door is still stuck! Is there a way to release the latch? It is the driver side back door - 2001 Lariat.
View 4 RepliesCan't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
View 6 RepliesWhen I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
View 3 Replies2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
I am working on a 2000 f-150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Automatic. It tries to crank over but acts like its stuck. things done: New starter, new battery, fixed connections. I can turn the crank counter clock wise but won't turn clock wise. Not sure if i should say the engine is bad or could trans be stuck? Heard 5.4L's have timming chain issues. Is that true? Point me in a direction and i'll go forth.
View 14 Replies98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
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