Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4x4 Light On Lower Right Of Dash Pops On When Clutch Pedal Is Engaged
May 11, 2015
I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
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The e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4. There is a whining noise when going 45 to 55 mph (at least that's the only time I can hear it), but only when the gas pedal is engaged. I thought I'd work back to front and I took off the rear differential cover, cleaned it out and changed the rear differential fluid. That did not reduce the whining, but I think those spin when the wheels spin anyway. The whine only happens when the gas pedal is engaged.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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So I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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In a recent show a listener described the exact problem I just started to have - the dash hand brake light pops on when i go over bumps or up my driveway . It was a fluid level problem but I don't remember which it was. Was it brake fluid or power steering fluid or something else?
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Got in my car yesterday and the airbag light on the dash stays on and a airbag fault message pops up in screen next to the speedo. What could be the problem?
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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I have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
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I might have a chance to pick up an 1997 F150 with a 4.6 pretty cheap. He has replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder, Says it keeps turning over until you put in in gear. In my experience a solenoid that is sticking wont stop until you disconnect the battery, just wondering what people think it might be? I am thinking I will just put a push button stater to make it work if its a wiring issue.
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Can't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
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I bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...
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I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
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Why the O/D off light on the dash is flashing??? Whats it mean? Its a 2000 ford explorer...4.0 V-6
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I have a 99 F150 4X4 with 4 wheel ABS and 80K miles. My ABS light on the dash has been coming on recently. It will go out for a while, & then come on again later.What is the first step to figure this out? I am a points/carburetor guy trying to figure out these modern machines.
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97 F150 4x4 5.4L ... Just put this truck back on the road after being parked since 2008. While driving at 45 mph, transfer case engaged and is locked in 4wd lo. I did notice a pop about a minute after I started the truck. Drove approx. 5 miles. Transfer case engaged and chirped the back tires, slowed speed to about 5mph. Having it towed home. I'm thinking shift motor???
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98 F150. Failed inspection for the dash brake light not coming on when you turn the key on. It comes on with the park brake set. Should it come on with key on as a bulb test?
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My amber ABS dash light in my 2003 F150 came on the other day. I changed out the rear pumpkin sensor, ohmed the front wheel sensors (they were within specs posted in FTE forum) and changed out the master cylinder pressure switch under the hood (my left/rear bulb was burnt out around the same time the ABS light came on). After doing all this the light remains....so I had the ABS code read and mechanic advises code C1206 was present. He recommended replacing the "dump valve on the frame rail". He also advised this is a very expensive fix so I might just want to live with the light being on all the time. What should my next steps be to get rid of the ABS light and get my ABS system working properly?
2003 F150 SuperCrew 4X4
4.6L V8 , 285/75/16 tires , 127K miles
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