My 03 f150 lariat 4x4 (5.4 L, 60,000 mi, 6500 g.v.w.r.) cuts out when towing (3,000 - 7,000 lb trailer wt.s) mostly highway but also in town. Usually restarts easily and when I drop trailer , problem disappears. Same problem with different trailers/weights - no error codes on my OBD reader.
View 1 RepliesSo apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
View 5 RepliesMy wife's brother has a '97 F150 w/4.6L/automatic trans/4x4-OFF ROAD package. It's a standard cab, short bed (fleetside) truck.
It has 126k miles and he is METICULOUS about routine/periodic maintenance. He's owned it since new, has changed the plugs twice.
Is this a common issue with the '97 4.6L? He says he has tried using premium fuel to determine if it makes a difference. He said it worked but it still pings, just not as bad.
I just got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4. Speedometer started cutting in and out. Just the speedo needle cuts in and is accurate for a long while then jumps up 10mph then goes back to accurate speed then cuts out and needle goes to zero for a bit then comes back on to accurate speed.
Just the speedo needle is the problem the trip meter and odometer and all other gauges on the cluster works just fine. Do I need a new cluster? Wouldn't be a speed sensor? Speed sensor would just cut off and would affect the odometer too wouldn't it?
I have a 2000 - F150xlt - 4.2L - V6:
Today while leaving work for lunch I started the engine and suddenly the ABS light came on and the engine cut out before I put it in gear. Then as I was driving each time it cut out the ABS light came on. So I stopped at the convenience store across the street from work to get some gas thinking it was low although it had a 1/4 tank. But after filling up it would not start. Then relay #2 began clicking in the fuse panel and would not stop whether the key was on or off. Several minutes of this went on and then I pressed the brake peddle in once more and everything on the dash lighted up, the dials fluttered around, the clock came back on, etc...
So I tried starting the engine again and suddenly everything started working and the engine started up. I drove it home and it ran fine with no issues, no cutting out or anything. After lunch I tried it again to head back to work and the truck would not start again. But this time there was no clicking from relay #2. Everything was dead until I pumped the brake peddle several times with the key off and then turned key in the ignition and then it started right up and drove like normal. Why it's doing this and what to check to fix it?
I have a 1999 f150 super-cab flareside, 5.4L, automatic, 4x4, with 175k miles on it, its runs perfect, i believe it has 3:55 gears. what can i do to maximize its towing ability like gear up to 4:10? I dont wana sell it to buy a f250 diesel or whatever and its paid off, what possible options do i have to keep the truck and maximize its towing rate.
(how do they rate a truck for towing? is it like how much torque the engine got? or is the frame or suspension built strong?)
I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
I drive a Supercrew F150 5.4L XLT 02 since 9 years, I put a Fuelflex module since 8 years, since some months I Misfire on cylinder #3 (P0303) but only during towing with Ethanol (over 2000/2500 rpm), when I drive on gas all is fine, I changed Flexfuel modul, plugs, coils, header gasket, without any positive results, it's very curious to have the problem only with ethanol (E85), I can drive very hard and at high speed with just the truck, but with a trailer as soon as I ask more power i lose one cylinder, with misfire...but like I said only on ethanol? I know engine needs more ethanol than gas, so I go check fuel pressure and maybe try to change fuel injector...
View 8 RepliesI want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
View 14 RepliesToday while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
View 4 Replieswhat is the towing capacity for my truck. 2007 F-150 4X2, V-8, 4.6L engine Supercab.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2013 F150 Ecobost. It is a 4 door 4x4 with the single rear drive shaft. When I pull my boat I get a very strange vibration between 60 and 70 MPH Mostly around 65. I had my balance checked all around on truck( not by Ford dealer) and took my Bass boat to the factory and had them go thru all the wheels and balance. It worked but I still have vibration. When I'm pulling the boat and the vibration starts I can see the trolling motor shaking on the front of the boat. At this time I do not think it is the boat. I have a tongue weight of about 350 Lbs. Having problems with F150 with a little load on the rear. Truck and boat are both new with low mileage.
View 9 RepliesI was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
View 10 RepliesI was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
Truck jerks violently when tring to brake only when towing. Its has done it when towing a large trailer with surge brakes, Does it 1 out of 3 times when stopping with electric brakes (goose neck trailer)...
View 12 Replies2013 CCLB, 33,500 miles, stock emissions
While towing a 9000 pound trailer at interstate speeds (75 to 80 in Wyoming), when pulling a hill, the truck downshifts to 4th gear, boost is about 18psi, eng and transmission temps in the 230F range, EGTs around 500C or 935F. RPM increases normally to 3000 then the turbo gets very loud and boost drops to about 10psi. The truck shifts to 5th gear, noise decreases but is still present, shifts to 6th and noise goes to normal after a couple seconds and boost builds normally.
This just started today. I have about 8000 miles towing this trailer and never had this before. I have about 350 miles until I'm home so I'm headed back out. Will play around with manual mode and see what it does. I also took a video of the gauges while this happens. Audio is difficult to discern. I will try to get better audio and post when I get home.
When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
View 3 Replies2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
What are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
View 2 RepliesI have a buddy that has a 1998 f150 4x4 with 4.6l and 332836 km on it. It will go in to reverse but will not go in to drive at all. Is his transmission shot? Or is there anyway to test it to find out what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesFirst of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.