1997 f150 electronic 4wd not working, lights on dash not working(they light up on start up) replaced transfer case motor still not working, checked all fuses, Do not feel or hear clicks on vacuum solenoid, Top vacuum lines on both have vacuum. Where do I go from here? What do I check next....
View 9 RepliesI have 97 4x4 f-150 V6 4.2 litre that in 2wd tries to go into 4wd causing a grinding then a thump. When I put the truck into 4wd there is no grinding or thumping.
I believe one of the vacuum solenoids could be bad. Just was wondering which one would cause it to want to go into 4wd while in 2wd. The left most solenoid looking under the hood is the 4wd and the other with the pink vacuum is the 2wd.
I have no vacuum from the solenoids but from the lines going into them.
Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
View 10 RepliesI have a '97 Explorer XLT with a 5.0L V8. Recently, I've developed a problem, in which it doesn't always start. Sometimes, when I turn the key, there is a very loud click (as if the solenoid is engaging), but there is no start. The battery is NEW, and confirmed good, and the terminal connections are tight. I have also replaced the solenoid, but the issue remains.
If I turn on the headlights, before trying to start it, the lights DO NOT dim when the key is turned...indicating NO draw, on the electrical system. I can try it several days a week, unsuccessfully. And then, one day, I can turn the key and it will start as if there was never a problem to begin with.
I have lost confidence in my favorite vehicle, as I am afraid to drive it if/when it does start, for fear of being stranded. I am thinking it may just have a bad armature, or windings in the starter, but if that doesn't correct it, I can't return the starter (as it is an electrical component).
I'm working on a 03 Lariat F150 with vac. controlled 4x4 (I'm new to this one). Transfer case works, ft drive shaft turns, but the front axle wont engage. The servo works, and the linkage is tight on the shaft, and the shaft turns back and forth, and the ft axle can be engage manually by working the small lever back and forth with the servo disconnected, but when zip-tied in place it doesn't stay in 4x4, so something is broken, worn out, or disconnected inside the housing.
Also I repositioned the servo back a bit with a spacer to make sure it wasn't a length of travel issue, and is not - the problem is definitely inside - the linkage feels sloppy when manipulated with the servo off.
Since Ive never had one of these apart I thought Id ask first (also a new thing for me), so I'd know what parts to get (I don't live "in town"), and I figger this isn't the first one of these to break. So I am sitting down - what am I in for??? It looks pretty straight forward, but somehow I doubt it is...
Found out the hard way that the 4wd does not work on this new stupid truck. I've been troubleshooting the solenoids and confirmed that the 2wd solenoid gets grounded and will read ~12V when switched to 4wd; however, the 2wd solenoid always remains grounded and will always read 12V across the plug no matter if it's in 2wd,4hi,4lo. What would cause this? It seems that I would have vacuum going to the front differential from both the 2wd and 4wd solenoids at the same time, thus not allowing it to go into 4wd. BTW, this is on a '98, 4.6, turn dial 4wd
View 14 RepliesI have no vacuum coming from the engine to the IWE solenoid. This is making my hubs stay locked all the time. where this line from comes from and how to fix this. Which line is the line from the engine, the one with the T in it or the other one?
5.4L V8 2004 New Style
My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
View 4 RepliesI have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
View 1 RepliesOn my 97, just had a new engine installed. Suddenly the Lo presser AC switch died. Now the Start Solenoid (I think) just clicks sometimes. Is this Solenoid on the Firewall the Start Solenoid?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 f150 and it won't shift out of park. The taillights work and I tried to turn the key forward and move shifter to neutral but it didn't work. Is it the switch on the brake pedal or the interlock solenoid by the shifter?
View 12 RepliesI just reinstalled the engine and got her running. I installed a new 6.4 starter (reman) and she spins perfect. I was experiencing this same issue prior to startup and thought it was weak batteries. The key will just click the solenoid and it turn the engine over.
Quick synopsis of what I've checked:
All grounds
All cables tight
Batteries are fully charged
Power at right fender pigtail leading to solenoid when key is engaged (tomorrow I'll ck voltage at work today)
Checked starter connections
Checked continuity on the 10g wire from the fender to the starter...all good even wiggled it hoping it might have broken internally...
To me it sounds like a bad connection but I did not mess with the harness (firewall) aside from bungeeing out of the way vertically. I can hook up a charger and she will crank with the key. I can disconnect the fender 10g and crank it from the battery with no issues.
I've quadruple checked for loose connections. Didn't have this issue before so not sure what happened. Relay sticking maybe?
I have a 2010 f 250 super-duty and i cannot get vacuum past the solenoid mounted on top of the radiator. Ford has given me nothing but bad advice. I know i have a vacuum leak after the solenoid and need to replace the lines going to the two hubs but when i switch on the 4wd and hook up a vacuum gauge the vacuum is good up to the solenoid about 12 inches. i constantly have 12 volts going to the center lead but nothing else in the other two leads either in 4 high, 4 low, or 2wd. Am I missing something here? shouldn't there be a voltage change when i turn the switch to 4wd to actuate the vacuum solenoid to let the vacuum pass thru the solenoid? I have tried replacing the solenoid but that did not work. Also use rubber vacuum line and make at down to the hubs?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 6.7 and i cant seem to get my 4wd to work in auto position on hubs i think i have it narrowed down to the solonoid for it but cant seem to find location on it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
I am mostly a domestic car guy, but recently been working on some Toyotas for friends. The situation:
'95 Celica ST, 2.2 5 speed, 200K miles. Died when coming to a light. The car was towed to my friend's house. Battery was completely dead. Replaced battery and checked alternator and starter at Advanced Auto. Both checked good.
Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?
So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
Looking for the vacuum diagrams for the four wheel drive, where I can find them?
View 10 RepliesIt has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
View 11 Replies