Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4R70W - Trans Has Hard Time Getting Into 1st Gear
Mar 13, 2013
The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
View 2 Replies
I have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
View 3 Replies
The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
View 9 Replies
4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
View 12 Replies
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
View 3 Replies
I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 Replies
My Daughter just bought a nice 99 F150 and the auto trans gear dash indicator is off by one so park says R and drive says N ... shes also having a little trouble with the key occasionally so I think the problems are related. Is this adjustable or not?
View 5 Replies
I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
View 1 Replies
My 97 f-150 starts up every time.........the first time. After I drive for awhile and shut it off it gives me a hard time starting. It just cranks over but wont start. If I give it gas it catches and tries to start but dies out right away after I let go of the key. Sometimes after up to 10 tries and 20 minutes later it starts up again, so far! Also there is a gas smell, but I am thinking that's because of putting the gas pedal to the floor. could it be plugs? i bought it with 180,000 miles on it. I pulled a plug and it does look pretty rough so I am going to change em tomorrow.
The parts store calls out iridium plugs. the guy told me any plugs will work. said the only difference is the mileage you get out of em.
50,000 on regular plugs
100,000 on platinum
150,000 on iridium
Not sure that's the case but I bought platinum. I changed the plugs and wires and it runs great now. stopped for gas yesterday and still had to put the pedal to the floor for it to start. only one try and it started tho...... what next?
View 14 Replies
Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
View 13 Replies
I have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
View 1 Replies
Anyway, I'm gimped in my left shoulder for a while and I'm trying to do what i can with my 03 F150 Supercrew /4bt Cummins conversion. I am using a Dodge 47rh tranny and need to know the wiring for the 4R70W so I can hook up my 12 + ignition wire, back-up lights and neutral safety switch. I'd like to build my wiring harness.
View 6 Replies
I have a '97 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L engine and automatic transmission. The tranny's been slipping on and off for a couple of years. It started when it was hot outside, I had been driving a long ways, and I was trompin' on the gas to pass someone. Still, the slips were rare. As it got worse during the hot summer months, I just minimized my long-distance travels.
I recently took it to a transmission mechanic. Like some of the feedback to posts in here, he felt it was a problem with the engine - because we had a bad EGR valve signal on the computer. (We still flushed the fluid. I later replaced the EGR and the DPFE. Another mechanic went through everything, replaced some valves that had something to do with the EGR, and feels the engine is 100% (and it runs very, very smooth). For those that will bring it up - I have replaced all of the coils (though it's been a few years). Having actually replaced some numerous times over the years, I can feel when one is bad (of course, the 'check engine' light as well). Lastly, we've replaced all bulbs in the dash so they are all working as well. Also, the transmission is not leaking. The computer system is giving us no errors/throwing codes.
After a couple of weeks, I happened to drive the truck a long distance one day and it started slipping. It got bad enough that it was slipping every time going from first to second gear. It would usually engage as I took my foot off the gas. Since then, because I haven't driven long distances, I have not had a problem.
The transmission mechanic thinks it's still an engine issue. He also mentioned a mechanical/electrical switch system on the side of the transmission (?). Give me a list of things to look at.
View 7 Replies
My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
View 19 Replies
99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
View 14 Replies
here is the full story. just gotten truck out of the shop for a lower end rebuild and diff rebuild, truck set for about 5 to 6 months with no battery or motor. Engine runs great! besides a P1000 code.
I can drive down the road and can't go no faster then about 40mph without going to or over 3grand on the tac. I took it to auto parts store and gotten codes for both shift sol. and found out that the internal wiring harness was bad, and replaced it today. and cleared the codes. left parts store truck went shifted to 2nd and started to seem like it was going to go into 3rd then the rpm's went up like I was getting on the pedal when I wasn't and now it is going the same thing again. but took it back to parts store and checked for any codes and just got P1000 code and code about my speed sensors but they have been bad for a while.
View 10 Replies
Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
View 14 Replies
So ever since I picked up the truck from getting the springs swapped out the tranny has started to slip more and more. It's about at the point now where it does it at the 1-2 and 2-3 gear change every time unless I give it a little throttle so it shifts harder. It's just the normal shifting pause and then the slight jerk when the next gear starts. Time to a new torque converter, or am I looking at getting my whole thing rebuilt? If it's the converter I can give that a shot myself but if I have to have it rebuilt it's going to have to wait until January or February.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
View 3 Replies
