Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4R70W Shifting - Can't Go Faster Than 40 Mph - Got Code P1000?
Mar 20, 2015
here is the full story. just gotten truck out of the shop for a lower end rebuild and diff rebuild, truck set for about 5 to 6 months with no battery or motor. Engine runs great! besides a P1000 code.
I can drive down the road and can't go no faster then about 40mph without going to or over 3grand on the tac. I took it to auto parts store and gotten codes for both shift sol. and found out that the internal wiring harness was bad, and replaced it today. and cleared the codes. left parts store truck went shifted to 2nd and started to seem like it was going to go into 3rd then the rpm's went up like I was getting on the pedal when I wasn't and now it is going the same thing again. but took it back to parts store and checked for any codes and just got P1000 code and code about my speed sensors but they have been bad for a while.
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What that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
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Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
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Anyway, I'm gimped in my left shoulder for a while and I'm trying to do what i can with my 03 F150 Supercrew /4bt Cummins conversion. I am using a Dodge 47rh tranny and need to know the wiring for the 4R70W so I can hook up my 12 + ignition wire, back-up lights and neutral safety switch. I'd like to build my wiring harness.
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
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99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
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My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
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I'm brand new 6.0 owner. I am going to be performing many of the bullet proofing steps including plugging off of or a complete delete of the EGR cooler. I've read that the SCT tuner will turn off the CEL light and stop the ECM from operating EGR function.
What I can't find for sure is will I get a code P1000 (drive cycle not completed) with EGR turned off. Here in Seattle if you have a code P1000 stored you will not be allowed to complete emissions testing to get your tabs renewed. I'm guessing it does not set P1000.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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I am working on a 2005 F-150 with a 5.4L 3V engine.
I had the battery disconnected doing some other work and now the Evap monitor will not complete and keep getting a P1000.
I have followed the drive cycle instructions and all the monitors have completed except the Evap monitor. Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
What would cause it to fail?
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I really liked my 97 f150 4x4. It was a very very good truck... until last night. It randomly shifted into 4hi. Okay, shorted wires, right? Eh... well this morning i was gonna take it into the school's shop, and now its switching between 4hi and 4lo... on its own... so i disconnected the switch in hopes that that was borked and it still keeps doing it. Also, disconnected axle actuator and it didn't unlock so its sitting in the parking lot currently...
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My car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
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In my 1998 f150 4.6L 5 speed manual. When I go to put it in reverse I get 1st instead, but if I do a second shift to reverse I get reverse. This happens on an average of once a week.
I know this can happen in FWD cars where you put it in one gear and get a different gear instead. Something to do with the shifting cable. But the f150 is RWD, the shifting problem only happens in reverse. Is this problem someone without ASE certificates can do, or without dropping the transmission?
I'll add to this so I don't start yet another post. Ive thought of the problem and if it was really going into 1st instead of reverse the problem likely would be bad enough it would just stay in 1st. Its possible that I am getting 4th gear when I go into reverse which tells me the clutch grabs really well, and its a problem I really need to fix, I don't know that much about transmissions but I do know if it keeps getting 4th instead of reverse, the clutch wont be so good pretty fast.
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I have 1999, F150 5.4L with electric 4wd shift. I put it in 4high just fine and smooth. Now 4lo on other hand rough shift if it goes in 4lo, sometimes won't engage but 4 high works fine. What's the cause
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I have a 1999 Ford F-150 XLT, with the 5.4 and a 4spd auto. 172,XXX miles on the clock and i have owned it starting on April of 2014.
Tonight driving home from work, it took some time on the highway (4 miles) to shift into top gear. When you lift off the gas pedal after reaching the speed limit, normally the truck will shift from 3rd to 4th no problem. When I let off the pedal, there was no gear change.
It took sometime for it to shift up. When downshifting on the exit ramp, there was nothing abnormal. Where I live it is 19 Degrees Fahrenheit and this is the beginning of the cold snap that will last well into mid-January of next year.
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My daughter bought this truck about 6 months ago. This morning a driver cut her off, then hit his breaks. She had to make a panic stop. When she went to take off again, 1st and 2nd was no problem. When she shifted into 3rd, the engine just revved.
She tried to shift back into 2nd, but it wouldn't go into 2nd. She pulled over and now it won't go into any gear. The shifter lever won't even go over far enough to go into 4th, 5th, or reverse. I doubt the panic stop had anything to with it, but thought I'd throw it out there, just because.
Okay here's the truck: 1997 F150, 4x4, base model, short bed, 4.6L, 5 speed manual, manual transfer case, 190k miles. Truck has been beaten and abused badly, but is basically mechanically sound.
Here's what I've done so far. Checked the fluid, it was fine. Pulled the top cover and shifter lever out. I don't have a clue what I was looking for in there, but I hoped to see something obvious. I didn't.
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I have a 1998 F-150 XLT, 2WD, 4.2L, V6, just over 103,000 miles. My transmission shifts fine into reverse but when I put it into drive it is very slow to engage, sometimes it doesn't. I have to put it in drive, hold down the brakes, give it some gas and then it will engage and lurch forward. I have check the fluid level and quality. Both are fine. This just started to happen two days ago with no fore warning. No previous problems with transmission.
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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