Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4R70W Code P7081 - Shift Solenoid?
Jun 2, 2015
Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
Code P7081
Do I have to drop the valve body to get to the shift solenoid? Is there only one solenoid? Anything special or tricky I should know about?
My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
here is the full story. just gotten truck out of the shop for a lower end rebuild and diff rebuild, truck set for about 5 to 6 months with no battery or motor. Engine runs great! besides a P1000 code.
I can drive down the road and can't go no faster then about 40mph without going to or over 3grand on the tac. I took it to auto parts store and gotten codes for both shift sol. and found out that the internal wiring harness was bad, and replaced it today. and cleared the codes. left parts store truck went shifted to 2nd and started to seem like it was going to go into 3rd then the rpm's went up like I was getting on the pedal when I wasn't and now it is going the same thing again. but took it back to parts store and checked for any codes and just got P1000 code and code about my speed sensors but they have been bad for a while.
I have a 99 f150 and it won't shift out of park. The taillights work and I tried to turn the key forward and move shifter to neutral but it didn't work. Is it the switch on the brake pedal or the interlock solenoid by the shifter?
View 12 RepliesWell, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
View 1 RepliesI had a 622 code so I replaced the solenoid pack . Took care of problem for a week or so with no issues... now it's back again... now it start 1st when we had heavy rain then it started again just today in heavy rain? Short maybe?
View 4 RepliesMy old 97 f-150's 4R70W started slipping.....so I just installed a rebuilt 98 f-150 unit that had about 10,000 miles on it and also has a transgo shift kit. Got it finished today....and.....
I have an check engine light code p0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction"........when leaving from a stop in Drive, the truck starts going in 2nd gear and just skips 1st gear all together. If I manually shift it, then 1st works fine and shifts through all the gears fine.
But in Drive.. it skips 1st. What to do? or what could be the problem? Where is this solenoid? Can I swap the one out of my old tranny into this one without pulling the whole tranny apart? (I don't mind dropping the pan though...) Or could i have a bad connection somewhere maybe?
Also....When the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd the rpms jump about 500 rpm before they drop...kind of seems excessive. Could this be caused by the shift solenoid A malfunction?
Anyway, I'm gimped in my left shoulder for a while and I'm trying to do what i can with my 03 F150 Supercrew /4bt Cummins conversion. I am using a Dodge 47rh tranny and need to know the wiring for the 4R70W so I can hook up my 12 + ignition wire, back-up lights and neutral safety switch. I'd like to build my wiring harness.
View 6 Replies2005 Ford F250 4x4 XL 5.4L 5R110W WITH 177,600 MILES... Tow Haul light flashed after 78 miles (along with other codes) after purchased. I purchased it used. While driving transmission would stop pulling as if it went into neutral and slam back into gear, at same time Tow Haul light be flashing...
Code is P0760 shift solenoid #3, I read from the forums on the site one caused could be the ground wire. We installed a ground strap from battery to tranny
Still does the same.
I have a shift solenoid ordered if needed, knowing the location of #3 solenoid in the tranny is the key to not having to keep dropping the pan. I love this site and have been reading it for long time.
The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
I have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
View 3 RepliesI am getting a single code - P0753 that comes on now and the van will not shit into 4th gear. It re-appears after clearing the check engine codes in 5 seconds. That seems to be the "A" or 1-2 shift soleniods (or wiring).
Can you get to the shift solenoids after dropping the transmission oil pan or do you have to pull off the side housing cover - that seems like a much more difficult job?
Of course, I will replace both of the solenoids if I can get to them. I will do it myself if I can get to them after dropping the pan but don't know if I will be able if that side cover has to come off.
What is the location and if I should be able to get that drivers side cover off if that is where they are?
I think the 1998 Venture's tranny is the 4T60-E.
I have a 1000+ mile road trip coming up soon so I got to get this fixed shortly. I guess I am glad this didn't happen in the middle of the trip though.
I'm trying to find information about replacing solenoid in my transmission. I have pdf of repair manual, and it doesn't have much information regarding transmission.
I have a p0766 code, and I think I need to replace Shift Solenoid. Does Technical Information Service Cover this with subscription.
97 Venture, 4T60e trans, 197,000 mi. No shift or performance problems ever, solid as a rock. Well taken care of. Then a few months back it throws a P0758 code for Shift Solenoid B, and intermittently seems stuck in 3rd or 4th gear when starting from a stop. Wife drives w/ kids so immediately I park it to investigate and drive it myself and observe. Problem would happen usually after warming up and driving a couple miles, but would sometimes go away after shutting it off for a bit and going again.
After lots of research I decided it was probably a stuck solenoid and tried Sea Foam Trans Tune to see if it would clean it up, and it WORKED! For about 4 weeks that is, then came back. So I took the proper time and steps to replace both shift solenoids myself, and of course the fluid & filter (since you have to drain it to open the side cover anyway). My work is meticulous and clean, so I know nothing was done shoddy.
When removing shift solenoid A, however, a spring-loaded spool came partway out of that port in the valve body, didn't fall out, and I pushed it back in with the new solenoid. Everything else went back together flawlessly. On the first drive, it shifted to 1st as expected so all seemed well. Then after a several miles of driving I noticed something felt wrong - it was skipping 3rd gear altogether (1-2-4), and it would NOT downshift from 4th to 3rd. However if shifter was in "3" it would shift from 2nd to 3rd just fine, then I could put it in "D" and would hit 4th, but could only downshift to 3rd manually.
I am stumped, and it's been parked for months because something in the solenoid change has caused a major problem. I don't believe it could be mechanical gear/clutch failure as it shifts to 3rd w/ shifter in "3", and there was never a mechanical problem before. And it also still intermittently starts out in a high gear though quite seldom (3rd or 4th, not sure which but it barely moves) but putting shifter in "2" or "1" makes it start in 2nd. And never a SES light. Checked solenoid resistance at trans connector and they're perfect.
Tranny shop checked computer and said it's good, and also said "it's shifting just fine" which is absolutely not true. So much for a "free" diagnostic check... Could I have just gotten a bad solenoid? Could the spring-loaded spool that came part way out gotten hung up or the spring not reseated properly? Could it be the vacuum modulator (it got slightly bent upward when lowering engine)?
I bought the car with 117k and never since my possession bothered to service it. Why? I kept putting it off well at 165k I said heck ill do it. Currently at 170k my gear wont shift past third and its reoccurring almost daily. When I first bought it it was intermittent. I think the late service messed it up. Here's the thing, aamco will open up my pan and look at my solenoids which is 250ish.
View 14 RepliesI picked up a 2015 gs350 f sport in atomic silver / black. I'm excited to pull out of the parking lot and get on the road! Yeah, not so much. As I take a turn onto the road I notice it's very sluggish, like starting off in third gear sluggish. I eventually get up to speed and wander if the floor mat is stuck under the pedal or something, whatever. anything but the car is broken.
I eventually get up to speed. Everything is fine. I don't accelerate hard because the the car only has 12 miles on it. Otherwise it drives like it should. Off the freeway and at a stoplight with an incline. Start to go, same thing. I pull over, turn the ignition off and back on. Car is fine.
So later that night (43 miles on the ODO) CEL and Trac off lights up. Car will not get up over third gear. Make it another 2 miles home and park it. I'm pretty distraught.
Took it to the dealership, don't know what they are but 2 fault codes came up. One for a shift solenoid and another having to do with the torque converter. Under 100 miles on the ODO!
So I'm with a red ES loaner car. Never seen it on a brand new car.
I have a 98 camry with code p0755 - shift solenoid valve#2 malfunction.-What are some of the most common causes. How to test it ,the issues that cause this and what to do also after replacing it if bad? Also are these to be replaced in pairs with both 1st -2nd shift and 2nd to 3rd shift .
If I have high miles on it will adding the 2 -3 quarts of new fluid give me issues as to mixing with the old and part breaking up in transmission(I've heard a lot happens when u replace very old fluid with new or flush it fully)..will be replacing filter also but not the rest of fluid still in transmission at this time. Looking for a link a pic. of the exact location on transmission inside pan .of it(looks similar to other shift solenoid near it )...
I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.