Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4.6L - Noise Coming From The Manifold Area
Jan 20, 2016
So I just installed a fresh 4.6 long-block in my '98 4x4 xlt and I have a noise coming from the manifold area. Thought it was possibly valves or timing chain. Took it to dealer and they diagnosed it as the Intake Manifold Runner Control. Never heard of it!!! Problem is, I can't find that part for this motor. Is it inside the intake? Do I have to replace the whole intake? Dealer didn't tell me, once I said I would do the work myself.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the car drives normally.
I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] .....
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Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
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Got a 1999 ford f150 2 wheel drive. I have replaced both upper and lower control arms with ball joints on both sides. New shocks, new stablelizer links, new inner and outer tie rod ends. Also, a new steering gear and i still have popping noise coming from both sides around the wheel area when i enter or leave out of drive ways, turning, or running in a hole. Doesn't do in going straight. I don't know what else to do. Driving me insane. I keep spending money on this truck and still where i first started.
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I have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
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Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the drives normally. I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] ....
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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I was looking at my exhaust manifold..and I found a couple of studs missing...so if I want to replace both of them , is it better if I replace all of them on both sides of the engine ?
By the way..my exhaust manifold is good I don't think none of the studs are broken.. but I have been having this engine knocking noise on my engine, do yall think a couple of studs could be the problem of why my engine is knocking?
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2000 f150 supercab 4x4 offroad. Sometimes in a very strong wind, I get a lot of air noise around the doors which is up in the window area. I occasionally get it if I haven't got the back half door shut tight.
Just wondering if there is a way to puff up those door seals without replacing them? Inject them with something or use a hair dryer to heat them?
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 4.6L automatic trans. The truck has 260,000 miles on it. Saturday, while going down the interstate, this chirping noise started up from the rear. When I got home I jacked the rear up and spun the wheels while listening. There is a chirping noise that, as best as I can tell is coming from around the front of the driveshaft around the u-joint area. I've never known of a u-joint to make this type of noise before. There is no vibration or anything, just the noise. The frequency of the noise increases and decreases as I speed up and slow down. I don't think it's coming from the transmission, but it's hard to tell, as everything echoes. I couldn't imaging the driveshaft itself making this noise, but I guess it's possible.
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I've got sort of a howl going on, was thinking rear end, but when i jacked up the wheels and spun the driveshaft the noise seemed to come from the transfer case area. I haven't had a chance to check the fluid yet, could it be a bearing in the t-case? Its only when i'm on the gas if i let off its gone. 2001 f150 super crew 4x4
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2000, F-150, 35K +original miles. 4.6L V8
Some weeks ago a noise started that sounded like fan blades striking against heavy plastic fan guard. At first I thought it was coming from the transmission/Transfer case area but after a few weeks of listening to I now believe it's coming from behind the dash area, however, I can't find any reason for it be from there.
The noise usually starts around 45 MPH
I checked the heater fan and it appears to be Okay. I don't know of any other fans in that area.
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1997 Acura Cl 2.2 ... Ticking noise coming from the dash board and glove box area ( sounds like blinker ticking noise).
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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I put brand new pads on my 2003 sc430 about 6 months ago, and have noticed this rubbing sound coming from all 4 tires. It is very noticeable and annoying. I'm wondering if I should have put brand new rotors on the car while I was changing the pads. I did not here this noise prior to changing the pads.
I'm attaching a link of a video [URL] .....
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So I've driven my 97 F-150 (4.6 L) around for several months now listening to that wretched left side exhaust leak caused by the nut on the EGR tube rotting off the nipple on the manifold. I tried plugging it, taping it with that exhaust "bandage" tape, etc. Nothing obviously ever lasted. And I sure didn't want to try replacing the manifold and then dealing with the potential broken studs, etc.
Then I finally got around to getting the gas tank straps replaced with that recall. So I took it to the dealership this past Friday. I mentioned the EGR tube leak kind of in passing. The service manager said they could fix it for about 80 bucks. He said they had successfully removed quite a few of those nipples without replacing the manifold. I kind of thought to myself "yeah right" (considering I live in the rust belt with all the road salt, etc.) and told them to go for it.
Not surprisingly, they called me back later in the day and said they couldn't get it out, and he wants to replace the manifold, etc. I just told him to plug it instead. When I picked up the truck, I learned the mechanic decided to WELD it instead of plugging it. I was pretty surprised that he tackled it, and he actually did a pretty decent job in sealing it except for one small pin hole on the back side between the welds. I mixed up some JB Weld and filled the pinhole. The welds may fail or the JB Weld blows out tomorrow, but, in the meantime, I don't have to listen to that wretched exhaust leak constantly. At least I'll have a few days peace if not longer
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I am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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My 2003 f150 4x4 w/5.4 has 220k miles and only minor issues until a few days ago. I now have a coolant leak at the mating surface (both sides left and right) of the aluminum crossover coolant manifold (holds thermostat on one end). I have most of the bolts out to remove the crossover manifold but there is one bolt on the RH side that comes from the underside. All things equal, main question is... Can that crossover mainfold be removed independently from the intake? My thought is that in order to get to that last single bolt (there may be others I am not aware of yet) that I will need to remove the intake.
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