Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4.6L - High Idle At Startup
May 30, 2012
I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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My F150 at startup is reving real high, almost max rpm's, like the pedal is on the floor. What could be going on?
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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So, yesterday I noticed the idle was higher than normal. In drive I'm at 950 to 1000 rpm and in park it's about 1150 to 1200. It's kind of like a cold start but never backs off and does this when things are warmed up also.
I replaced the IAC Valve about a month ago cause I got tired or cleaning it. The condition was a low idle and fluctuation when I came to a stop.
To test for the new conditions I have been reading that if I pull the plug on the IAC that the idle should drop if it's working?
If there is no drop in RPM then it could be the TPS? 1999 5.4....
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1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
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I will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
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corrected vaccum leak. Still high idle and obd2 code 1506???
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So my F150 (with 4r70w) has a weird issue. If I jump on it (only briefly) and then drive normally it gets stuck in a high idle/late shift mode. Sometimes it won't even shift until 3500 - 4000 RPM. If I stop and restart it will usually go back to normal (depending on how warm the tranny is, the warmer it is, the less likely to fix on restart). Now I understand that if you give it a lot of gas it will shift later, but like I said, it get's stuck in this mode even if I have a light foot after. The really weird thing is that it does this after cruising on the highway for a while. Also, the OD light does not flash.
As I'm writing this, I just realized that a common thing is warm tranny fluid. I'm not sure if it's the tranny because the high idle and the fact that it will shift fine if babied. There are no codes.
Here's what I've done: Flushed tranny fluid and filter (full flush, not just the little bit with the filter change), replaced TPS, replaced PCV, replaced IAC valve, replaced a few vac lines, and cleaned entire throttle body (including EGR valve).
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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My trucks symptoms include a illuminated service engine soon light, sometimes a high rpm idle, and sometimes a rough erratic idle. When a scan was done it indicated the oxygen sensor was defective. The issue is: which specific one (there are multiple oxygen sensors) or how could I check or determine the faulty one for sure. I am trying to economize and replace only the bad one myself if possible. I own a good multimeter, can it determine the bad one? 1999 F-150 4.2 Litre V6 oxygen sensor dillemna....
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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I am currently working on a 97 ranger with a 4cyl and 5 speed. its having some idle issues that i cant seem to pin point, you can start it and it will idle rough then when you rev it up it chugs real hard then dies. used my scan tool and all the sensors are good, fuel pressure is good, good compression, all 8 plugs are firing good and no codes. The other deal that has me a little confused is when I unhook the hose that runs from the air intake tube to the valve cover, I get a lot of vacuum at that port on the valve cover that the hose hooks to. Also when I plug it and pull the dipstick, I get vacuum at the dipstick tube. never seen this before but at the same time I've only messed with very few of these trucks so I don't know whats normal.
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I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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I have a 03 explorer 4.6 at cold start-up it wants to stall and it idles very bad just for maybe 5-6 seconds and then the idle picks up and it's fine. This only happens on cold start-ups, if I drive it and restart it's fine.
This started when I replaced the two front (up-stream) O2 sensors, I didn't need to change them just have 150,000+ mile and was trying to do something to get better mpg.
Do We should disconnect and reconnect the battery after replacing the O2 sensors on an 03? Reset the computer?
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1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
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I have a 97' F150, 4x4, Auto trans, 5.4L Lariat. Power locks and windows. Auto locking hubs. It doesn't appear to have any theft deterrent system installed.
It has been sitting for some time. When I hook up the battery the headlights, dash lights, and wipers turn on and the horn starts blowing continuously.
Cycling the key in the ignition or door has no effect. Cycling the key to the start position does not engage the starter.
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