I have acquired a 4.6l DOHC out of a mid year 85 mustang cobra, would like to install in my 2000 F150 that has a 4.6l sohc, what is available for ECM with the swap?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 5.4 4x4 auto with a bad engine, and have 1997 f150 4.6 4x4 auto rolled but with a strong engine. What would need to be done to replace the 5.4 with the older 4.6 engine?
View 1 RepliesOk so I've done a lot of searching but can't find any info on how to repin the harness to use the 2000 4r70w in my 2002. Both are 4x4 and came behind a 5.4.
View 4 RepliesHaving older 5.4 truck tried to swap in a newer 5.4 2v from a E- series? The vans never got the 3v engine. I have a 2001 5.4 w/150000 miles, and I have a line on a 2008 5.4 2v from a E-350 with only 30,000 miles. Any issues/problems with the swap?
View 2 Replies2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
My names brad. I have the old model 97 . Is it possible to swap the cab to a 4 door. Its got a 8ft bed
View 1 RepliesDrove it yesterday no problems. got in this morning tried to start and would not turn over. thought it was a dead battery. Ran jumper cables to my wifes car waited for a while tried again. nothing. bought a new battery put it in. Nothing. I did notice when turning the key the dash lights come on then half a second they go out. interior lights, and 12v outlet work but no headlights. Any issue other than the obvious corroded terminals or loose terminal wires?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2000 ford explorer which didn't start... I put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter in it...still not starting ...gonna do a a compression test tomm. and see if it the timing chains or tensioners... Sounds like its misfiring actually, it doesn't start with starting fluid sprayed in it....where is the ignition pickup located on these things? I still need to put a new ignition coil and wires on it. plugs were in horrendous shape and i thought that was the problem.
View 13 RepliesI bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
View 3 RepliesThe Service Engine Soon light has come on on my 2000 F-150 with a 4.6L when I was driving home in the rain. It has about 120,000 miles on it now. What are some of the main reasons why this comes on? Oxygen Sensors?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 - F150xlt - 4.2L - V6:
Today while leaving work for lunch I started the engine and suddenly the ABS light came on and the engine cut out before I put it in gear. Then as I was driving each time it cut out the ABS light came on. So I stopped at the convenience store across the street from work to get some gas thinking it was low although it had a 1/4 tank. But after filling up it would not start. Then relay #2 began clicking in the fuse panel and would not stop whether the key was on or off. Several minutes of this went on and then I pressed the brake peddle in once more and everything on the dash lighted up, the dials fluttered around, the clock came back on, etc...
So I tried starting the engine again and suddenly everything started working and the engine started up. I drove it home and it ran fine with no issues, no cutting out or anything. After lunch I tried it again to head back to work and the truck would not start again. But this time there was no clicking from relay #2. Everything was dead until I pumped the brake peddle several times with the key off and then turned key in the ignition and then it started right up and drove like normal. Why it's doing this and what to check to fix it?
I own a 2000 F150 4.2L (I think off the top of my head) v6 XL model. For the past couple of years I've had an issue with overheating. So far I've had the following replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Radiator Cap
Water Pump
The intake manifold has been repaired, that was the first item to have some work done to it. The shop I took it to said the coolant hose that runs into the manifold was corroded at the entrance to the manifold. They stated there was no way to actually replace the hose, but they gave me two options:
1. replace the entire manifold or
2. cap the existing entrance port, drill a hole into the manifold next to the port, and run a new hose.
I chose the cheaper option which I suspect is part of the problem. Now to the problem.
I can drive around town all day long no problems even in 100+ degree Oklahoma summer heat. I left it idling on the side of a street for 2 hours during summer and no problems. The moment I get the truck to 55mph it starts to overheat. Not just overheat, but peg completely out in just over a mile after hitting 55mph.
Once I drop the truck down to about 40mph the temp starts to lower, but will fluctuate between normal and 3/4 to max.
What I need to look at? I've been told head gaskets, but there's no leaks and no water in the oil. I've been told to replace the engine, which if I could afford that I could afford a down payment on a new truck. It's a bit frustrating at best.
I have a 2003 f250 4x4 with a 5.4 motor the automatic trans is shot. I can get a replacement trans from 2000 f250 4x4 with the v10 motor. I tried my best to research it bell housing supposed to be the same so it should fit. But I'm not sure what they changed in those years internally or electronically.
View 2 RepliesThe knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
My truck is a 2000 model 2wd with the 5.4 engine. It has about 234000 miles on it. It suddenly started surging last night rpm jumping around approximately 4-600rpms each time. I noticed that once I got up around 50mph it would smooth out...
View 4 Replies2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2002 F-150 4.6L 4x4. The engine went bad and we bought a new engine (remanned ATK). Had this engine installed and a year later it was bad and was determined it was a manufacturer defect so they sent a replacement engine under warranty.
We had this new engine installed. The mechanic fired it up and it backfired through the intake. They claim that the compression is good, the fuel pressure is good, and the timing is correct. Can they check these things when the truck is not running? The mechanic is completely frustrated with the situation...
Everything I read leads to a timing issue but they say they checked it so before I go in there screaming I want to make sure it couldn't possibly be anything else...
I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
1995 sedan, how many quarts does the 1.9 liter dohc engine hold.
What weight should I use?
Seems to burn a little oil, anything to reduce this?
I have a 99 ford escort with a 2.0 SOHC engine and for the last week or so it was making a tapping noise but it was intermittent. Today, I revved the motor up slightly and it started making this horrible clanking noise and then it stalled out. I tried starting it up and when it did start to run, it made the same clanking noise then it shut off. I tried to start it up and it wont even turn over. Its acting like it seized up but I am not sure if its in the top end or the bottom end. Now I know the CVH engines are notorious for dropping valve seats but I am not sure how to diagnose it if that is what happened.
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