Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 4.6 Lumpy Idle When In Gear
Jul 17, 2015
Recently I just purchased a 1998 F-250 (light duty) with 11X,XXX miles on it. Up until today, it was running perfectly. However, today it started idling rough whenever I was at a light. This was only when I was stopped, in gear, with my foot on the brake. In neutral or park it didn't do it, and it stopped as soon as I gave it a little gas. No CEL either. I've looked around, and saw that it might just be "feature" of the 4.6. I also have seen to clean the MAF, but wouldn't that also give a rough idle when in park/neutral? Same with replacing the coil pack.
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I was driving home last night and when I stopped at a light in town, I notice the oil pressure dropped and the light came on. So I pulled over and put in park to check my oil. As I put in park the pressure went back up. I dropped it back into gear and it went back down. What could be causing this? I check my oil and it was full. I also notice when I put it in gear and speed up the pressure goes back up and stays there till I slow down again.
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My truck is a 2000 model 2wd with the 5.4 engine. It has about 234000 miles on it. It suddenly started surging last night rpm jumping around approximately 4-600rpms each time. I noticed that once I got up around 50mph it would smooth out...
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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My 2005 Excursion, at 198K miles has become more of a 'hangar queen' in that I only use it for big jobs. I've kept it for towing/hauling and making long highway runs with more than 4 people.
The truck, 99.8% of the time, runs super. It pulls like a locomotive and gets decent fuel economy (17 mpg running 75 mph empty). I've got the 'blue spring', EGR delete, ARP headstuds, 4" MBRP, Banks intercooler, and run my SCT tuner all the time on "8000 lb tow".
But...there is this weird intermittent problem. It appears to only happen when it is warmed up and driving around town. Sometimes, when I pull up to a light, with my foot on the brake, the engine will sort of go into a 'lumpy race idle' and you have to clamp down on the brake pedal to keep it from lurching into the guy in front of you. Other times, it just runs rough and idles 'lumpy'. It has only died maybe 2 times when acting up. Often, the symptoms disappear on their own and don't come back. If I turn off the engine and re-start (to keep from scaring people at the bank drive-through) it usually runs fine after restart.
I've got an EDGE CTS monitor so I've been trying to find out from that what is going on. I can't seem to catch the parameter that might tell me. My local 'indy' shop can't find any codes thrown. The truck had new alternator, batteries, and starter motor installed in January this year. These symptoms have been going on for several years. Recently, they seem to occur more often.
I've searched on this site a few times, but with no definite 'hit'. I'll admit that I'm a big out of the jargon. I keep thinking this is related to FICM, but everyone seems to say the FICM would manifest as a cold start problem. I do know the FICM sits right on top of the drivers side valve cover. It has got to get hot.
FICM?
Injectors?
How do I kill this one strange problem?
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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Drove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Also the OD light would come on also.
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it's missing at an idle and it acts like it dont wanna take gas but once you get it going on the road it does good. the motor is a remanufacture motor it's only got 6,000 miles, new coils, plugs and wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, idle air control, mass air flow,and temp switch.
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My f150 cranks but will not idle unless you hold the throttle at 2 rpm. It has not ran hot. There is no oil leaks.
I've changed the following parts:
Cam sensor
Crank sensor
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Coils
Spark plugs
Iac
Tbp
Maf
Fuel pressure
Pcv
I've have tried everything i can think of so i took it to a shop they said just get a new motor I don't think so.
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I just purchased a 2001 F150 XLT with a 5.4 engine. If I start the truck and let it idle, it will hold steady around 900rpm's. If I give it a little gas and then let of (all while in park). The rpm's never come back down to 900. It hangs at approximately 2000rpm's. If I turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, start it back up, the engine idles fine again at 900rpm's. If I give it some throttle again, the same scenario takes place.
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So, I don't use my F150 too much and an animal made a nest int the intake tract and the nest material (chewed up air filter) got sucked in the throttle body all the way to IAC valve. So I thought I cleaned everything out, even got a new IAC. It starts now but just dies. I didn't remove the throttle body, should I? Where else do you think I could I find this stuff?
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Woke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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In my 1998 f150 4.6L 5 speed manual. When I go to put it in reverse I get 1st instead, but if I do a second shift to reverse I get reverse. This happens on an average of once a week.
I know this can happen in FWD cars where you put it in one gear and get a different gear instead. Something to do with the shifting cable. But the f150 is RWD, the shifting problem only happens in reverse. Is this problem someone without ASE certificates can do, or without dropping the transmission?
I'll add to this so I don't start yet another post. Ive thought of the problem and if it was really going into 1st instead of reverse the problem likely would be bad enough it would just stay in 1st. Its possible that I am getting 4th gear when I go into reverse which tells me the clutch grabs really well, and its a problem I really need to fix, I don't know that much about transmissions but I do know if it keeps getting 4th instead of reverse, the clutch wont be so good pretty fast.
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Okay, so I am not really sure where to post this. I have one of the weird 1999 F-250s that aren't a SD. The shifter is pretty loose, about 4-5 inches of play while in gear. Shifting isn't a problem, just the play in the shifter that I worry about. I have been trying to find rebuild kits, but can only find stuff for Rangers/Mazdas.
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I have a 1999 f150 with a 4.6L 2wd 278k miles. I got this truck from my cousin about a year ago and it ran ok but not much power. It sat a few months and I tried to start it and nothing. I replaced the fuel filter and pump and battery. It starts but runs very rough. I then replaces both coil packs, plugs and wires. It idles rough but seems to run fine in park besides some popping and shuttering when I give it gas until the rpms are up around 3k, it smooths out.
I put it in gear and it completely looses power and barely wants to move. Only code that showed was the egr, I removed and cleaned and no change besides no codes at all now. it still will barely move. I have looked for any vacc lines that might have came off but do not see any out of place. the heater core has been bypassed and exhaust has leaks from someone welding on new exhaust and not being able to weld good. Also it smells like it is running rich.
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My 3rd gear is starting to slip, Is there a chance that it might be a small fix ? if so how or what can I do? 2003 F150 4x4 Automatic ...
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
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