2002 F150 5.4L. Keeps blowing fuse in location #30 which is a 30a fuse for the following:
Passive anti theft transceiver
Cluster
Ignition Coils
Powertrain control module relay
Coil on plugs
Radio noise capacitor
ECC diode
Could this be a grounding spark plug wire?
I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
View 3 RepliesMy truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
View 14 RepliesWhy the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
View 7 RepliesI am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
View 14 Replies2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
I have a 2000 F150 with @175K miles. Replaced the clutch about a year ago, replaced the front calipers a few weeks ago, due to the right front locking up on my way home from work. Since then, when I try to start, it blows the fuel pump fuse. (#10)...
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 f150 blows the overdrive fuse (#29) every time the overdrive tries to engage. Could it be the overdrive switch? Where is that switch? Could it be a speed sensor? Truck has an automatic transmission and a 5.4 engine.
View 14 RepliesMy 01 f150 keeps blowing a fuse. It makes the O.D. light flash, only have 2nd gear, motor runs real bad. I forget how many codes it had but it was a bunch. It doesn't blow the fuse rite away. Sometimes its days between sometimes its hours. Where to start looking for the short?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 f-150 looking for answers to my problem automatic transmission my overdrive fuse keeps blowing. My third and and overdrive don't work. It shifts 1st to second but that is it. No other fuses are blowing.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 f150 that only blows heat and I am wondering if the blendor is bad or is it something else that is causing the issiue
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
View 3 RepliesI was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
I have an 01 f-150 4.6 triton and it now blows a sometimes pretty big ploom of white smoke at start up. Sometimes it smokes for a while after that and sometimes not. It runs smooth and strong but I have no clue what to do...
View 13 Replies2002 F350 7.3PSD, lariat 4x4 dually , 212k miles, automatic, crewcab, bone stock other than k&n filter in factory air box.
Bought the truck from used dealer with 168k miles on odometer. Drove it for two months and the radiator started filling with diesel. Had injector cups replaced. Had new o-rings on injectors and valve cover harness (both sides) at this time. While in shop they wanted to put injectors in truck but limited funds haulted that. Got the truck back and drove it for a while and noticed that when starting the truck it had a miss till it warmed up, but went away. This has been going on for over a year, but now has gotten much worse. Over the past year it has gone from slight miss to a full on dead cylinder that you have to make the truck pick up as you drive it. If you leave it sitting for more than roughly 10-12 hours you have to plug it up or it has trouble starting.
The final push from this ole girl was the other day. Left for work, normal hiccups and such from the truck. I pull up to a stop light and notice the truck is not sounding like its running correctly. No biggie it will smooth out, or so i think. I head towards work and the farther i get from home the worse it runs...
It wont pull its own weight, barely creeping at times. So i stop and check all my normals(oil mainly... just replaced hpop fittings and o-rings) and add fuel to it to get it over half tank. Start truck, still missing. Pull out on highway and dump foot to floor. It takes off only to fall on its face and start blowing white smoke out exhaust and die. It starts back but apparently I pissed it off cause from there it only got worse!!! It done that all the way to work, one time being so bad i had to stop and let traffic go by as the smoke cleared the roadway.
I get to work and check oil and it was way low. I add oil and drive it to lunch and it runs good, no hiccups misses or anything. Yay, problem solved!!! WRONG!!! Head home after sitting for a few hours and i pull out the parking lot and it falls flat of its face and goes into its dieing and such again. I limped it home and its sat in the yard ever since. Tried to start it today and after being plugged in for a couple hours it only sputters on a couple cylinders till it slowly dies. All Ive got for my troubles today has been two dead batteries...
This truck has always been underpowered as well. And gotten terrible fuel mileage (8-10 avg)... But it sure is pretty!
When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
View 3 Replies2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.