Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2wd Spindle Nut Socket Size?
Oct 17, 2015
Want to replace the rotors on my '97 2wd truck. What size socket do I need for the spindle nut? Can't seem to find that information with a search. I popped off the dust cap and test fitted a couple of sockets after removing the cotter pin and cap that locks the nut in place. 1" too small, 1-1/16" a little loose, so I'm thinking this nut is metric and I want a 26mm socket?
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Some folks swear by a 5/16 8 point socket, of coarse I dont have one, so I want to make sure b4 i buy anything. Looking at adjusting the 2nd gear band on a 72ish C6 ... As you know its a square end bolt, I dont own the correct square end socket either, so any direction would be groovy
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What size socket is used to remove a lug nut on a 2000 F350 4X4?
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What is the proper socket size for the oil filter housing?
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1999 F250 CCSB Lariat 5.4, 2 wheel drive. I plan to replace the Driveshaft Center Bearing in the next few days. What size is the Nut that I have to remove to remove the yoke next to it so I can press the bearing off?
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i just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
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What size socket I need to remove the driveaxle hub bolts from this car? I can see the bolts are considerably larger than the socket I have for my Ford Tauruses, and I would like to eliminate the guess work before I go to carquest to get the proper socket. Unfortunately bringing the car to the store and trying sockets until I get one that fits is not an option, since the car is not running right now.
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Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
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I'm replacing my rear diff cover and didn't realize there are multiple sizes. How do I figure out what the size is of my ring gear?
2001 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCrew, 5.4L
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Finish a job yesterday and go to start my 98 F-150...4.6 and get the dreaded click. All has been fine. Firewall relay clicking, so crawl underneath in the slop and snow and the main battery wire corroded off the starter solenoid. Go back up top and turn the key to run position, crawl back underneath and short that wire to the other main terminal that feeds the 12 volts into the starter. Truck starts right up. That gets me home, I found a 4 gauge lug in my electrical stuff, clean up the wire and crimp it on ( actually a smoosh with a vice-grip cause my crimper won't get in there and trying to solder in that position wasn't gonna' work). Replacing that cable and how hard was it to pull it out of that loom that it shares with other wires? I was thinking just run a separate cable in a new loom and zip tie it to the other loom? I was guessing it is 2 gauge? Looks like about 4' would be enough to go from the battery to the starter.
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I have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
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I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
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I need to replace my FRONT side marker socket.
This is the small 194 bulb socket, NOT the parking/signal socket.
There IS some sort of clip that, for the life of me I can't figure out.
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I'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
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Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
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I have 1989 plymouth colt dl wagon the rear spindle nut needs to be replace but there is no spindle nut anywhere...
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I have a non resonated exhaust and when I get on the gas, the spindle that holds down the spare tire in the hatch rattles like crazy. It is so loud. I have tried removing the spare tire and also removing the cap that holds down the spare tire. Nothing works.
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just installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
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What size the pitman arm nut is? And where to get one? I am lifting my truck soon and I'm going to double nut that baby on there. I know they're prone to loosening. I just wanted to have all the parts before I started.
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I plan to replace my Halogen low beams with xenons in a 2003 b5 (v6 auto 4motion). Can't figure out how to remove the shroud over the power steering reservoir to provide access to the driver's side lamp - the passenger side looks pretty straightforward.
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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