Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 XLT - Wiring Schematic For Engine Control System
Jul 21, 2016
2002 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L... I am looking for wiring schematic for the engine control system. I purchased a haynes repair manual from Auto Zone yesterday but the diagram seems very generic and the colors are wrong for the O2 sensor for example. Right now my truck is in "Limp mode" Fuse is blown and I am trying to find out what all is on that particular circuit its Fuse 23 and the haynes manual says fuse 24 which my truck doesn't even have a 24.
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My 1995 Ford motorhome blower does not work. The motor works fine. All threads say to follow the circuits to troubleshoot. That is nearly impossible with wiring harnesses. I need a Ford F- Series HVAC wiring schematic to find ALL of the electrical components, in order to test.
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Need excess to a wiring diagram schematic for a 2011 f150 ecoboost 4x4 as I need to check what powers up the dash on the 2011 ecoboost as well as other wiring, I have one that had damage on the front end with the battery exploding everywhere, the truck did run and drive and the only difference between than and now was that it was water washed under the hood to clean off the battery acid, it did run shortly after it was washed, but after repairs it will not start, as in not turn over the starter and not power up the dash, its as if there isn't any power coming up to the dash as the dash will not light up or power up the gauges when the key is turned on, or it's not recognizing the key. We took it to a ford dealer to scan it and the tech said it would not link to the OBD scanner and said to check for power at the computer and if there was power that it might be the PCM, we have put in a new PCM, no difference, changed out the BCM (fuse box on right kick panel), no difference, we took the under hood wiring out/untapped it all and checked for damage, no damage, still nothing...
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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How do I get the ac control switch out of the dash? Something must have come loose as I only get cold air or heat to the windshield...
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I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
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I have an '02 F150 Lariat CC 5.4L. The truck is new to me and neither the cruise control nor the horn works. i have checked all (known) fuses and relays. I have tried the cc diagnostic, and the dash light DOES NOT illuminate. Should I assume that the dash light is not burned out? Is there a way to test the clock spring connections for continuity? and how do I access the connection
i checked the cc brake pressure switch and have continuity there.
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I am having trouble with all sorts of functions on my 2002 F150 4x4, 4wd not working, cluster module illumination not working, horn not working, reving up and down at idle and sometimes dyin, cruise control quit working. I have been reading it is the GEM module that causes these issues. My question is I ordered a new one from Ford, when it arrives I was told I can just install it and It should be pre programmed. but one ford house tells me that they have to install it and program it. Which it right? I have seen several sites on u tube where people replace the module and then start their truck right up without any issue.
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I own a 2014 F-150 XLT 3.5 L 6 cyl Twin. Saturday afternoon I tried to start the truck once and it didn't start like it normally does. It started on the second try, but the A/C didn't work and I got a "Starting System Fault" warning on my screen. When I shut the truck off, it would not start at all. All the lights and gauges worked, just no start.
Had to tow it to Ford Dealer, where the service department had already closed for the day (of course). Today it was determined by the service department that the Body Control Module had malfunctioned. I was told that the tech tapped on the control module and the truck started. Now waiting two days for a replacement part to come in. Luckily, I'm just under 36K miles and three years. Is this a common occurrence?
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Looking for wiring diagrams for a 97 gran marq. Specifically I want to hotwire, the climate control , to give me heat and defrost for more then 2 minutes an hour. I've got the climate control unit out of the dash, and the relays click just before the heat comes on for a few minutes. Of course that was an invitation to smack things with the screw driver. OOPS If there are no heater fuses hiding, besides the ones over the parking brake, I've now also destroyed the unit. Blocks of wood on the vacumm actuators, and wiring the fan direct will work with my unemployment check just fine. BRrrrrr it cold in the car...
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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Working on putting this project back together and cant find my notes when I pulled it apart last year. Any schematic or picture of their brake lines from the master cylinder to the rabs or front brakes? Better yet, which port on the master cylinder goes to what axle?
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L It is a May build so is mainly 1996 parts. Came from the factory with auto transmission but PO did manual swap. Truck had factory cruise control but never worked after the swap. I found clutch safety switch missing so installed that and now it works as far as truck only starting with clutch in and other pins ohm good but it didn't fix the no cruise issue. All the diagrams I can find are wrong so I am stumped.
Horn works and steering wheel brushes appear to be functional.
Brake switch has 12V in and out so I think it is ok.
Brake switch on master cylinder has power in and out so I believe it is ok.
All brake lights work since I read that diagrams don't show it but they are somehow tied into the cruise.
I believe the issue is in the clutch safety switch (CPPS) wiring as I only have power on one wire however my colors don't match my Haynes or online diagrams. Also, no where can I find if this circuit runs on hot 12V or ground. Some wrong diagrams show hot 12V coming in on the light green wire from the brake switch but others show a hard ground on the red/Blu wire.
Most diagrams say I should have red/LtBlu, Red/LtGrn, LtGrn, Gray/Yellow. I actually have Red/Blue, White/Red, Tan/Blue, White/Brn. The White/Brn has power coming into the switch.
The connector for the automatic transmission column shifter is disconnected and the shifter was removed. I read that this needed to be jumpered to the tan/blue wire after a conversion on the CPPS but only on 2002 and up trucks so I don't think this affects me. That plug is for overdrive cancel.
Looking for a good diagram for a manual shift, diesel cruise control circuit that shows my color wires on the CPPS? I have had this truck 2 months and have fixed everything except this and will be making a long trip soon so cruise would be nice to have functional but I am stumped.
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I just bought a 99 f150 and the check engine light came on with code p0171,system too lean bank 1. It runs and drives fine but has a strong smell of gas when I shut it off.
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After short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
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I have a 03 Eddie Bauer PSD and I'm looking for wiring diagrams online. Specifically for the lighting systems. I bought a set of OEM telescoping, heated mirrors with turn signal and running lights and the running lights do not work. Appears that 03 may not have supported this but I see other rigs with the same mirrors and the running lights working.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
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'03 E250, standard van with RKE if that's pertinent.............
Looking to replace the on-board 4-way flashing system with Whelen strobes and looking to have the column mounted button be the on/off switch for that power supply. I have a schematic from a '97 E250 (almost identical FWIW) which I can post the pin out, test procedure and EVTM version of the hazard portion of that Multi Function Switch if that's useful.
I know it would be far, far less complicated to control the Whelen via a separate switch but this above reversible mod would be somewhat cool IMHO.
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Where I can get a radio wiring diagram for 2003 F250 Crew Cab?
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I have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
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