Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 V8 - Dashboard Gauges Always Stay In The Same Position
Oct 31, 2006
I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
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I have a 2000 Regular Cab Work Truck with non power split bench seat. The passenger side back will not hook in the up position.
Before diving into it. Is the mechanism broken or is it something I can fix if I tear it apart? There is nothing stuck under or behind that I can tell.
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Just bought a 2002 4.6 v8. Check engine light was on and it pulls code po340 for the camshaft position sensor. I took a look at it and found its not plugged up. The plug is missing but the two wires are still there. I can replace the two wire plug but does it matter which wire goes to which side of the sensor?
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2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
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This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
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Last week, my 2002 V6 Camry decided it didn't want to start when the key was turned. That was with my wife driving. By the time I got out there, the car was running just fine. She said it didn't turn over, didn't click, nothing.
Today, it did it again, but it didn't have that magic reawakening like it had last week. I tried jumping it to see if it was the battery, but it did not change anything.
Here's what happens: Turn key to run position, and the dashboard lights up.
Turn key to start position, and there's silence. The clock on the dash turns off (as normal), but the only noise under the hood is the sound of the starter relay making a single click.
Does that mean the next place to look is the starter Solenoid? Can I jump the solenoid like on an old car to see if that starts her up?
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Is there a mod that allows the headlights to stay off when the key is in the on position. 2001 F250....
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I have a 98 F150 with a 5.4 auto 4X4. All four of the guages are on the left side of the instrument cluster. Neither one of the 4 work. The gas gauge, the amp meter, the oil pressure, and temp gauge work. the all four just stay all the way down. I've checked all the fuses and the sending units. ONly fuse position number 6 and 30 pertain to the cluster. I took the cluster out too make sure it was plugged in and it was. I know there is gas in it and I know the oil pump is working.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F150 Regular Cab Work Series with the 4.2 V6 4x4 and an automatic transmission. It has what seems to be an electrical issue where the speedometer and gauges come in and out seemingly at random. All of my fuses are good with the exception of Fuse 1 in the fuse box under the steering wheel, which will blow every time I put a new one in. It seems like there is a short in the wiring for the radio? However Fuse 1 is supposed to control only the audio, and I'm not sure why that would be an issue with the gauges.
When they come on, everything seems to work just fine. Also, even when they go out and I have the headlights on, both the gauges and the car stereo will be backlit with the green glow.
When I turn put the key in the run position, the gauges will come on and remain on for a random amount of time after I start the engine, then will go out and come on at random. When the gauges go out so will my check engine light (code P0460).
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Ran for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
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I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
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I have an 02 F350 7.3 ... I just installed my glowshift tripple gauge pillar set. I have an EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauge ... I followed all the constructions on installing them. The boost is working just fine and the EGT was too, but after a while the needle started going back and forth and the red warning light what blinking and then it just sat at 0 with the warning light on and stay that way. My fuel pressure gauge is connected to a sensore i put in my fuel filter housing, my fuel pressure gayge right from the start stayed at 30 psi with the red warning light on and just stays there .... Also the buttons to change the color and set the peak on the EGT gauge are sticking for some reason and staying down and aren't letting me change the color ...
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I am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
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I have a F-150 2005, since 3 mo. ago when I turn it on, all the gauges in the dashboard start "twinkling" and after 5 sec. return to normal operation. What's the reason? Do I have to worry?
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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My 1995 Ford Thunderbird has a problem when I turn it off. After turning it off and removing the key the gauges still stay on and the low fuel light come on even though there is a full tank. Every other time I turn the car off the heater fan turns on even though it is in the off position. I replaced the ignition switch and cylinder but it didn't make a difference. I'm thinking it might be the ECU but I don't want to just start replacing more and more things trying to find this out.
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle 140,000 miles, that has kind of a hiccup miss also there are times when all of the gauges drop and them come back up. I have had the car at the dealership twice and to another mechanic. When I took it to the dealership the first time they told me that it was the spark plugs and the number 1 coil also had a mouse nest in intake manifold. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil 1, clean intake and replaced gasket, replaced MAF, fuel rail sensor and EGR as the codes have been read.
Last time I picked it up from the mechanic it started missing in less than 10 miles to the dealership. The computer said nothing at first then the mechanic took a drive with it. He did have the gauges drop. The codes said charging system. My other mechanic check the battery said it was charging fine and that the alternator and battery cables are all good. Dealership and mechanic are at a loss for what to do.
Last night I was sitting in the car looking for a button that had lost. The car had not been driven all day, off, no key in the ignition. I heard the static noise that I have become familiar with and looked at the cluster and the gauges were all at the below their normal off position shaking and then stopped and returned to normal position. Should I change cables, battery and alternator even when tested they say that they are OK?
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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I had a '11 and when I turned the key on all the gauges would sweep across and then go to normal position. My '14 does not is that normal ?
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
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