After short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
View 1 RepliesI just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
View 9 RepliesHaving problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
2001 F-150 5.4 extended cab
You have probably seen this before. Engine cranks but will not start. Backed into driveway, loaded recyclables, truck would not start. Fuel pump relay clicks, a small amount of gas comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I press the stem with a phillips head sd. When the engine is cranking the check engine light is on so I assume the computer is working but there are no RPMs showing on the tach. At this point I'm thinking a bad crank position sensor. Would that sucker go all at once like that? I believe they hid that behind the ac compressor. Am I looking at removing the belt and compressor to get at the sensor?
I am working on a 2000 f-150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Automatic. It tries to crank over but acts like its stuck. things done: New starter, new battery, fixed connections. I can turn the crank counter clock wise but won't turn clock wise. Not sure if i should say the engine is bad or could trans be stuck? Heard 5.4L's have timming chain issues. Is that true? Point me in a direction and i'll go forth.
View 14 RepliesI just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
View 7 RepliesJust replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
View 1 RepliesMy 03' Passat 1.8 won't start. It turns over and cranks. When I'm doing that, all the lights on the dash flash off and on (including hazards), the overhead light flashes and I can hear a click, click in the same time as the flashing. Seems like it must be some sort of electrical problem. Maybe a bad relay or fuse.
View 1 RepliesWhen I go to crank my car in the morning or after its been sitting for a while... It turns over but won't crank but when I turn it back and immediately crank it again it cranks right up...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
View 4 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
2002 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L... I am looking for wiring schematic for the engine control system. I purchased a haynes repair manual from Auto Zone yesterday but the diagram seems very generic and the colors are wrong for the O2 sensor for example. Right now my truck is in "Limp mode" Fuse is blown and I am trying to find out what all is on that particular circuit its Fuse 23 and the haynes manual says fuse 24 which my truck doesn't even have a 24.
View 1 RepliesThe oil light on my 2015 Camry LE turns off immediately after I crank the engine, and half a second later goes back on again for less than a second. I showed this to the dealer and they said it is normal; however none of my other cars did that. Perhaps the factory filter is bad and needs to be replaced? It does it only if the car sits for a while. If I turn the engine off for 10 minutes and turn it back on it does not do it, which tells me that perhaps anti-drain valve is bad...
View 12 RepliesMy 01 F150 5.4 with 208K miles is having a starting issue. Did it again today, turns over, but won't fire. Problem has occurred a couple times in the past, but started after just a couple time of trying. Today however it took many times of turning it over I would say 5 or 6 times before it started. Seems like it's turning over kind of fast as well (faster than normal). Runs fine after it starts.
View 14 Replies1999 F-150 XLT 5.4L Triton 4x4 super cab with a 4" body lift. I bought it used. It has 225,000 miles with engine and transmission rebuilt. This truck doesn't get driven every day - sometimes sits for a week or so at a time...
Issue: A couple weeks ago, it took 4 or 5 attempts to get it to start. Once it started it ran fine and re-started fine. Then my wife drove it but parked it back at home with the gas practically empty. Then it sat for at least a week or so before attempting to start it again. Now it just turns over and won't fire. I suspect fuel pump relay, fuel filter, or fuel pump (hoping its not the latter)
What I have done so far:
1. I put more gas in it in case it really was skimming the bottom of the tank.
2. I tried cycling the key several times thinking that maybe the fuel line just needed to prime.
3. I don't hear the fuel pump "whine" for two seconds when I turn the key to just before start.
4. I checked the fuel pump relay fuse (#10) - not blown
5. I have swapped thet fuel pump relay (#301) with another relay
6. I put 12 volts across the just the relay and I can hear it picking up and dropping out (when not inserted into slot 301)
7. I put my hand on the relay and had someone else turn the key and I can feel it picking up and dropping out (when installed into slot 301)
8. I went and checked out a fuel pressure tester from auto zone and connected it to the schrader valve and got 0 psi while turning the engine over.
All this points me to the fuel pump, but I am not looking forward to dropping the gas tank. With 0 psi, I doubt the filter is just clogged. I would still get some kind of pressure at the fuel rail, right?
2001 f150 4x4 5.4 205k ... This truck is not my daily driver but I use it about once or twice a week. Last night I drove it to the store and it ran great. As good as ever.
This morning it won't start. It cranks and the battery is strong but no bang. It was cold. Just below freezing for the first time this year. No blown fuses where would you start?