Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 Truck Won't Shift Into 2nd Or Drive
Mar 23, 2015
Today at a light my truck wouldn't upshift. I can manually shift from low to second but not to drive. Reververse works fine. I was noticing a slight slip between 45 & 55mph and would sometimes go away if I disingaged the overdrive.
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I have a buddy that has a 1998 f150 4x4 with 4.6l and 332836 km on it. It will go in to reverse but will not go in to drive at all. Is his transmission shot? Or is there anyway to test it to find out what the problem is.
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My father's 2000 F150 5.4L has developed an issue. But the issue only surfaces in it's last gear. As it shifts into overdrive it begins to miss and hesitate and bog. If you disable overdrive you never feel it.
I'm thinking an exhaust restriction. There are no trouble codes, no check engine light. I notice that the note of his exhaust changes as the vehicle warms up, sounds like it's being smothered. And the flow out of the pipe lessens.
My only issue is whether the EGR is causing it or the converters. Haven't seen them go bright red yet, but this has been going on for a good while.
I wanted to get a few opinions before I tear into it today. I'll do a vacuum test on the EGR valve and rescan the codes but don't wanna drive it and heat up the exhaust when i gotta disassemble it.
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3. It was running fine 2 days ago. After I put some diesel in it my water in fuel light came on. I drained the water out and took all the fuel out and put fresh diesel in it. It starts up fine and idles okay but when I try to drive it it looses all power and acts like it's starving for fuel and almost dies. It was smoking white smoke for a little bit even after I took all the water out but now it's black. What it could be.
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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4x4 wont work, when I shift the lever on the floor it doesn't engage so i bought two new solenoids.. didn't work, have power on both solenoid connections. If I unhook my vacuum lines from the solenoid, I can push the Actuator rod in making my 4x4 work. I've gone threw everything.. have vacuum, have power on my solenoids. Just nothing works when I shift into 4x4 on the floor.
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My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
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Transmission problems 2002 f150 lariat... Once I get up to about 50 mph the truck starts jerking around..
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My truck won't down shift most of the time if I'm in 4wd especially I have to manually shift or stop let the rpms go to idle then it shifts down and I can take my foot off the brake and drive again not good when ur in deep mud and u start slowing down and can't bring rpms up...
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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I have a 97 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, A4LD, 68k mi. with P0171 and P0174 codes, lean fuel mixture banks 1 and 2. The truck will rev up and down from 500-1000 RPM when Im rolling in Drive. When I accelerate, its fine, but when I let off the gas and roll it starts revving again causing the truck to shake. I replaced plugs and wires before the codes (1-2 months ago). After the codes came I replaced the fuel filler neck (not because of the codes), cleaned the air filter, cleaned MAF, changed fuel filter, and checked fuel pressure which was at 29psi so I replaced the fuel pump. Is there any common causes for this? Cures?
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My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
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While in drive, transmission does not shift into the first gear (once in motion transmission shifts between 2-5 without any issues), but all 1-5 gears available while in Tiptronic mode. The check engine light is not on. Is it a transmission problem or a control/wiring issue?
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Ok so I went mudding this past week, and I put my 997 7.3 truck in 4x4 had fun then took it out of 4 wheel now it won't shift past 2nd gear top speed 35 mph.... It still has all the power revs up Rpms fine but it won't go faster then that.
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I'm under the understanding that my 03 explorer AWD tranny level can't be checked. Is this true. Well anyway , went on a 1000 mile round trip. Left for work following morning and truck wouldn't shift to 2nd without letting off the gas. OD lite was flashing. Got to work. Left work and goes into 2nd fine but now it wont hit 3rd till I let off the gas. No OD lite flashing but now check engine lite is on. Watzz up. I would like to check the fluid....but see above.
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