Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Truck Won't Downshift Most Of The Time If In 4wd
Oct 14, 2013
My truck won't down shift most of the time if I'm in 4wd especially I have to manually shift or stop let the rpms go to idle then it shifts down and I can take my foot off the brake and drive again not good when ur in deep mud and u start slowing down and can't bring rpms up...
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
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I have a 4.6 01 F150 with 3.08 rear end I got back in Sept. In Nov. I replaced the timing chain/guides and brakes/rotors all the way around. I have also flushed the cooling sys. and replaced all the coil packs/plugs in Nov. About 2 months ago I started feeling a vibration(feels like the truck is bouncing most of the time not bad but I know something isnt right) at ~37MPH. Not always bad but 98% of the time you can feel it.
I feel it at other speeds sometimes also. 2% of the time I dont feel anything. It had older tires and I got a new set ~ 3 weeks ago and its the same. A couple days ago I put a GoPro under it and filmed the driveshaft and it does seem to be bent some. What might be my issue or things I can check myself? One other note is the previous owner did use the truck to haul a horse trailer some and I know now that rear end was not the best for that! Truck has 210K on it and engine was replaced at ~ 150K
2001 F150 Driveshaft wobble - YouTube
I went down the street and back and only got up to ~35MPH
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My 2002 Ford F-150 4x4 4.6L 5speed strangely has a time delay in starting now. A delay in TIME and not the usually chucking along waiting to start. Or simply I turn the key and a second or two passes before anything starts to happen and it fires right up. Was wondering a few months ago, if my clutch sensor was going out but then it cleared up once I put a new battery in it although at the same time the weather warmed also. Bad connection somewhere, bad ignition switch, or bad clutch position sensor – I could go in each of these directions. Thought maybe the security in the key was doing it too but both keys have the same problem. No codes also.
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I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 that sometimes has a miss upon acceleration but not all the time.the truck is a 4.6 with a manual trans.has no engine codes and scanner never show a misfires but sometimes it does , have replaced all spark plugs and coil boots twice.
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Today at a light my truck wouldn't upshift. I can manually shift from low to second but not to drive. Reververse works fine. I was noticing a slight slip between 45 & 55mph and would sometimes go away if I disingaged the overdrive.
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My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
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Transmission problems 2002 f150 lariat... Once I get up to about 50 mph the truck starts jerking around..
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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2000 5.4 4x4. 104k miles. Extended cab. Heres the issue, when you're at that spot on a slight upgrade and the tranny should down shift out of overdrive it will downshift kinda hard. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it wont. Its driving me nuts. I thought maybe change the fluid and filter and see what happens, but a tranny guy that I don't know from the other guy said dont waste your money its more than likely a broken spring behind a piston. I put a new motor in this truck about 10k ago so I can wrench. It did this before the motor swap too.
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I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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Just did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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2002 5.4 super duty. My truck had started to ping, and knock worse over time. I did some research on this site, and I decided to remove my K&N air filter. Replace it with a traditional paper filter. Then I cleaned my mass air flow sensor. The results were great, no more knock and ping.I will check the MPG next to see if I get any improvements.
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He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Last summer my A/C and blower stopped working while I was driving on a hot day in July. After replacing blower resistor, the fan works but still no A/C. I tried recharging refrigerant but the pressure in the lines was too high. Also it didn't seem A/C compressor was working either. I suffered through the hot summer only to find when winter came the Heat quit working as well. I noticed antifreeze smell in cabin and put liquid aluminum to stop the leak and still no heat. I planned on pulling the dash and replacing the heater core but wondered while the dash is off could there be something to replace in here on the A/C as well?
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