Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Replaced ECM Now Won't Start
Dec 22, 2015
Well...I had the ECM replaced on my 2002 F150. She ran great for about 60 miles. I had trouble with the key right off at the dealer - it wouldn't start, so I flipped the key over, and it started. Drove about 35 miles, and had starting issues a couple of times, but minor, and over quickly. Came home, and did not drive it for a week. Got in this morning, and it WOULD NOT START. Turned over normal, but won't start. Now I am stuck 15 miles from the dealer who programmed it, and no way to get it there. Anything that I can do to get it started to make the trip?
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Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
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I have a 2003 f150 that has a history of misfiring on one side. It started with a misfire on #1, then #4, and finally #2. I replaced all 8 plugs last year and each COP as it gave the misfire code over the course of the last 3 years. My latest run in was with #2, and I replaced the COP today and took it for a test drive. It was running pretty rough at idle, which I assumed was from disconnecting the battery, but then the stuttering started but it felt a little different than the standard misfire that usually didnt pop up until 40-50mph.
This stutter was more constant, and it also let up when I would coast. I only took it for a 4-6mile test drive and toward the end, the "Service Engine Soon" light started blinking and then went off by the time I got home. I parked it and noticed quite a lot of crackling noises that seemed more than normal, but it was a hot day and I was pissed that I didnt fix it so I cant say for certain if it was out of the norm or not, but it seemed louder and more frequent. Then I got to worrying about my cats going bad.
So, my questions are:
Could I have done something wrong when changing the COP?
What can the flashing "Service Engine Soon" light mean? Ive only seen a solid one before.
Should I be worried about the cat going bad since all the issues have been on that one side?
What should I do next?
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
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All of a sudden my 2002 F150 6cyl, will crank but won't start. First thing I did was hook up my timing light to see if I'm getting spark when I crank. Tried a few different plug wires.....no spark. Can a coil just go out like that? I have a multimeter, what do I check to see if the plug that goes to the coil is providing correct power and input?
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The brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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So i replaced my IAC(Idle Air Control) Valve and the idiling is much better! However my shaking/jerking has not stopped. I have found the problem which is the exhaust manifolds! I was wondering if when i replace them which i am probably going to get headers should i use metal gaskets?
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I have a 1997 ford f-150 flareside 4x4 and the interior lights have not worked since I purchased the truck.I checked the bulb and it was burnt out so I replaced it and still does not work.
The truck was hit on the 3rd door on the passenger side before I bought it and I think they may have done something to keep the interior light from coming on by accident when not shutting the door all the way.
I checked the number 14 fuse which is where I think the interior fuse it on this truck, what I could check to be my problem?
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We had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
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I have a '03 f 150 screw 4x4 with 5.4. I had to replace the heater core in the truck and I could hear air going through before the replacement. Now I can still hear it, have tried to burp the system a few times, even jacked up drivers side front on an incline to get reservoir higher. Ended up replacing the hose with the flow restrictor and that worked or so it seemed. The noise is back and I am lost on what to do next. I tested the head gasket and that came back negative also. What to do next or possibly what the issue is?
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i just got an F150 supercrew 5.4L 4x4. has approximately 180k miles but motor and tranny run clean and smooth. issue i am having is the OD light flashes but no other service light is on. i had code read and said it was a Differential Feedback Pressure Sensor (DFPS). Replaced the sensor and hoses but still the light is flashing. i have not changed EGR as of yet due to money but was wondering if i could maybe get pointed in the right direction. the Tranny does not seem to be operating improperly except at low speeds it tends to shift between OD and 3rd on occasion.
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I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
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I have replaced the transmission Range sensor (with OEM) and it is adjusted correctly, however This did not clear the. Code P0705... I am stuck ....
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