Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - On Startup Exhaust Smoking?
Jan 29, 2013
I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
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I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
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2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
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My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
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I have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
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A few weeks back I had an issue with my transmission, while moving the vehicle I noticed white smoke when starting the engine that would go away after a couple seconds.
If I let the engine warm up, it starts smoking again, removing the radiator cap and it stops smoking. I have checked spark plugs, fuel injectors, cylinders for water, but cannot find water anywhere. No water is showing up in the oil either. The transmission repair is on hold (hoping to just replace solenoid pack) while I try to figure out the engine issue. But at this point I am not sure what could be causing the smoke.
It's white smoke, 4.6 v8 on a 2008 Explorer. Is it the head gasket? Or am I overlooking something?
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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I have a 03 Camry, that has started to release white Smoke from the exhaust only on start-up for about a week now. After that I don't see anything not even if i rev up the car.. Only on start up.. WHY??
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1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
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My F150 at startup is reving real high, almost max rpm's, like the pedal is on the floor. What could be going on?
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I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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I have a 97' F150, 4x4, Auto trans, 5.4L Lariat. Power locks and windows. Auto locking hubs. It doesn't appear to have any theft deterrent system installed.
It has been sitting for some time. When I hook up the battery the headlights, dash lights, and wipers turn on and the horn starts blowing continuously.
Cycling the key in the ignition or door has no effect. Cycling the key to the start position does not engage the starter.
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So on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
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I am going to start from the beginning because oftens times we don't provide all of the information that may be pertinent to the correct diagnosis or repair. It'll be kind of lengthy! It all started about 3 days ago when my wife told me that my truck was "shaking." I said, "ok, just drive the car til' I can look at it" The next morning, the I was able to look at the truck. I had a cylinder 8 misfire detected. I drove it for about 1 hour that day to and from work. I did this so I could see what what the "shaking" was. It was actually what I describe as a "shudder."
Anyways, I done a fuel pressure check and all was well. I took of the coil, tested it, it was fine. So, I took out the plug to inspect it. It was wet! Not drinched, just mildly damp. I dried it off, cleaned it off with carb cleaner and it fired right up no hesitation no nothing. No CEL light, no shaking, no shuddering. It ran perfectly normal. I let it warm up to speed and took it for a test drive around about 6 city blocks. All was well. So I took it on the highway for about a 2 mile stretch. I was givin' her some juice pretty hard to see if it would misfire. Upon acceleration I heard a screech. Now this is where it get's interesting.
The screech that I hear, I just related it to the belt because it's done it ALL the time. When I first bought the truck it squalled like a whipped puppy cause of a cheap belt. The good ol' bar of soap trick fixed that! But, ever since then, it upon shifting, or under acceleration it would screech then stop. So anyways, on the highway run, it screeched while I was accelerating. It did this from about 60mph-80mph. I then, turned around and came back home. By the time I got to the stoplight to turn off towards my house my oil light was on and the engine was knocking. Not a tap, a knock.
I slowly coasted home not going over 20mph and pulling it out of drive as much as I could. I get home, and I check the oil and there is nothing on the dipstick! WTF!? I always run Mobil1 Full synthetic and put it 6qts. It doesn't smoke, doesn't leak or nothing! So I freaked out and went and bought 2 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mi and poured it in. It brought up the hash marks and quieted the deep knock. Later that night after work, I done a full oil change and flush and put back in my Mobil1 Fully synthetic 5w20. It now knocks at startup, and smooths out to a tic. Then at idle, it sounds like a light knock. It appears that it goes away upon acceleration.
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Went to a road course for the first time on Sunday. After about 10 laps the car started smoking bad from the exhaust. The smoke was thick and white. There were professional drivers present (driving school) as well as a lexus service manager there looking at the car after the run. The smoke was thick but without that sweet smell of coolant. This was the hardest the car has ever been run but also maintained normal oil and coolant temperatures. After a bit of resting the smoke cleared up and never came back, my drive home was 2 hours long and car still seems ok. Engine sounds good, oil very clean, what could it have been? I have no cats so its going to be more obvious than normal.
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My bro just got a 1999 passat 1.8t and it seems to be smoking really badly from the exhaust. We checked the air intake for oil. But that seems fine. Where its going bad?
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97 f250 4.6l engine pegs the temp gauge after start-up. the oil pressure light comes on then after a few miles down the road anti-freeze blows out the pressure cap (15LB) then the temp goes down ,the oil light goes off and everything is normal. no its not the thermostat, i changed that and it still does it. whats up with that?
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I've recently begun experiencing a problem with my truck dying immediately upon start up. It's a 99 5.4 and it will act like it's starting normally but then will idle down and die. If I gas it to 4000-5000 rpm it will eventually return to normal idle and run fine. At first it was once a week and then every day, usually upon the second start of the day but today it happened twice and I suspect it will become more frequent. What to check that doesn't involve a Ford Dealer?
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