Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - No Oil Pressure And Rattling At Idle
Aug 21, 2017
I bought a 2002 f150 4x4 with a 4.6l. It has 250k miles on it. a couple days ago. It had no problems at all during the test drive or for the 150 miles home. Yesterday after it warmed up, the oil pressure dropped to 0 while at a red light and had a rattling noise. Not a knock but more of a rattle. I can't isolate where the rattle is coming from. Oil pressure comes back with just the slightest of increase Of RPM and seems To have plenty of power while driving. I had read to check the pressure manually but with the noise I sense there truly is a problem. the oil appears clear and is full. What I should be checking on this.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 4.6 liter V8 Super Crew. I use Castrol full synthetic oil and Fram filters...changing oil about every 10,000-12,000 miles and change filter at half way point.
Here is my issue: I noticed a slight rattle on passenger side of engine a few weeks ago but engine ran well & I wasn't sure if it may be a pulley from AC compressor or something else. It wasn't bad at all...more like a ticking sound.
Yesterday I drove to work with no problem and when I got ready to leave 9 hrs later, I noticed rattling was getting worse. I ran about 2 or 3 miles down the road and my oil pressure flatlined and light came on. This is the 1st time it has ever happened. By this time the rattling sounded bad, almost like it broke something on both sides of engine around valve cover area.
I pulled over immediately and had truck towed to shop down the road from my house, When my mechanic started it up this morning it had oil pressure and rattling was not near as bad. I put a new oil filter on it & topped off oil. He could not get to it today so I drove it home today for the weekend and by the time I got home (3 miles) it did same thing...flatline, oil pressure light on and rattling with no power (very sluggish).
I did notice the oil pressure light came off & on and gauge went up and down a couple of times before I shut it down. What the problem is? Oil pump maybe? I just didn't think oil pumps usually fail.
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I was driving home last night and when I stopped at a light in town, I notice the oil pressure dropped and the light came on. So I pulled over and put in park to check my oil. As I put in park the pressure went back up. I dropped it back into gear and it went back down. What could be causing this? I check my oil and it was full. I also notice when I put it in gear and speed up the pressure goes back up and stays there till I slow down again.
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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I have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
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I am having great difficulty trying to figure out why my truck is surging so bad in park or in gear at idle. I have to mat the brake while in drive to prevent me from ramming the car in front of me. It all started when I replaced the air filter. Everything I've read leads me to the EGR valve, but that has been bypassed.
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I have 2002 5.4L f150 120k miles. Bought it almost 2 years ago and did not notice this vibration at the time but it could have been there and I didn't realize it. The trans was replaced by ford with a reman at 90k. I'd assume they inspected the trans mounts but who knows.
At idle only, there is a vibration. Enough that I can see water in a bottle moving and a plastic bag shake., felt through the seat, hand on engine can feel it, can feel it through the door..etc. Very annoying. At 700-750 rpm it goes away. Happens in all gears. I don't want to shotgun approach this. What I've done: Replaced plugs and coils since it needed them anyway. They looked good! No difference. I've sprayed the maf down and cleaned the throttle plate (I know your not supposed to but some 16 year old will try to tell me it cured his idle and he gained 10 mpg, so I figured I would mention it). I've removed the IAC and cleaned it, plunger moves freely. My idle does not fluctuate. I have watched mode $6, it's not a misfire. I have removed the pcv hose and checked for cracks - it's in good shape. Replaced the pcv since it's cheap. Ran Chevron tehcron through it. Checked codes - nothing. I have an edge and it happens on all tunes as well as stock.
I have ability to read live data but do not know enough to interpret it, so that is about useless unless you can provide me acceptible ranges.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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My 2002 F150 (50,000 miles) 4.2 is surging when cold. I just got done replacing the pcv valve. I noticed it was running better so I cleared the service engine light, but now is surging when the engine is cold. I live in FL so it does not get that cold like up north. The following codes were the ones that the pcu put out, P1131, P1115, P0174 and P0171. I am leaning towards changing the IAC valve and maybe the oxygen sensors.
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So I recently acquired a 2002 F-150 4x4 super crew with the 5.4 V-8. It idles rough (surging from 400 - 700 rpm) when cold, and sometimes dies, but more often then not it stays running. It runs and drives fine when the accelerator is pressed and when going down the road. When it gets up to operating temperature, and has been there for a while, it seems to idle fine 95% of the time. The codes I have are P0136 (bad circuit to O2 sensor), P1151 (HO2S detects lean mixture or something like that), and the infamous P0171 and P0174, which is lean exhaust/mixture on both banks. Now I have read extensively on the internet about these symptoms and have done the following:
Sprayed every vacuum hose with carb cleaner, and even around the intake manifold and injectors.
Considered the IAC (its new, the guy I bought it from replaced it a couple months ago) Torque app for android phone says vacuum is good. Cleaned the MAF and air temp. sensor with electrical cleaner Checked all of the vacuum hoses on the engine by pulling them off
Put grease around the fitting where the PVC valve attaches to the valve cover. Seemed to make it idle a lot better after messing with it, but I don't know if it was a result of the engine being fully warmed up, or my messing with the PVC.
What to try next? I'm close to just dissecting the top part of this engine and seeing what the intake manifold gasket looks like..or could it really be an 02 sensor?
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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My air conditioning compressor is rattling and grinding. I am trying to determine if I need a whole new unit or just a clutch assy. I can say this, when running it's rattling, but when the clutch engages, it clears up.
Would I be right in assessing it's the clutch? 1998 250 5.4 .....
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At the above speeds my truck has a rattle/ticking. I think its the cats but I'm not sure. I checked all the obvious like the heat shields and stuff. The truck has 118000 miles on it and has been in So. Cal. its whole life.
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1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle 1.8L Turbo with over 120k miles. Recently it started idly roughly on occasion and had a slight rattling noise but only when stopped. When it was driving, it felt fine. This went on for about a week and then one day about a week ago it started for about 10 seconds and then stalled. Since then it will turn over, but not start. We've checked the starter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and ignition coils and have replaced the crankshaft sensor (which was what I found on VW sites as saying it often solved problems like mine). The battery is new. Part of what I saw when researching was in addition to what is currently happening other owners had a long term issue with the car bogging down once in awhile at high speeds (50 mph+) for a few seconds and then picking back up again. My car did this as well and that's why I thought the crankshaft sensor may be the issue.
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I have a 97 ford f150 v6 2wheel drive. I was driving to work when l heard rattling in the engine like something came loose when I stopped to check my transmission fluid was pouring out drained out in 2mins tops. What do you think it could be?
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