Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Horn Continue For Few Minutes - Only Stop After Applying Pressure?
Aug 27, 2013
I have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
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I have an '02 F150 Lariat CC 5.4L. The truck is new to me and neither the cruise control nor the horn works. i have checked all (known) fuses and relays. I have tried the cc diagnostic, and the dash light DOES NOT illuminate. Should I assume that the dash light is not burned out? Is there a way to test the clock spring connections for continuity? and how do I access the connection
i checked the cc brake pressure switch and have continuity there.
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Basically the car LS 2003 V8 had an issue with the thermostat....this was necessary be changed after 50 miles of drive the car....in the last 4 miles the temperature increased in a short period time to the high limit...with the protective system the car was turn off.....one time with the mechanical service the follow items was changed: thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, water pump, plastic joint parts (housings), head seals, coolant and the 2 caps (radiator & coolant tank), this last was damaged by the pressure during the over heating.
After all parts changed I still continue having in the car the high temperature in 8-10 minutes of continue engine operation, after this period time the car turn off automatically by the safety system.
I need information about the coolant flow in the system, the pump pulley rotation, the belt installation, the manner and values to test the old temperature sensor, auxiliary pump and the current CTS (cylinder temperature sensor).
The fan motor is working good, none coolant leak is present, and I already test without thermostat (none change in the result).
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I am having trouble with all sorts of functions on my 2002 F150 4x4, 4wd not working, cluster module illumination not working, horn not working, reving up and down at idle and sometimes dyin, cruise control quit working. I have been reading it is the GEM module that causes these issues. My question is I ordered a new one from Ford, when it arrives I was told I can just install it and It should be pre programmed. but one ford house tells me that they have to install it and program it. Which it right? I have seen several sites on u tube where people replace the module and then start their truck right up without any issue.
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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I bought a 2002 f150 4x4 with a 4.6l. It has 250k miles on it. a couple days ago. It had no problems at all during the test drive or for the 150 miles home. Yesterday after it warmed up, the oil pressure dropped to 0 while at a red light and had a rattling noise. Not a knock but more of a rattle. I can't isolate where the rattle is coming from. Oil pressure comes back with just the slightest of increase Of RPM and seems To have plenty of power while driving. I had read to check the pressure manually but with the noise I sense there truly is a problem. the oil appears clear and is full. What I should be checking on this.
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2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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Ok, I was reading the one on the V8s, but not sure with the V6s. First off, let me tell you what has been done. I replaced fuel and oil filters, Plentum seal, and bolts, replaced plug wires, and coilpacks, and the PCV valve. I can't remember what else I did, but it was before Spring Break last year when my daughter and I were taking a trip across the US to pick up a motorcycle and do site seeing. Anyways, before I did all of this, the truck was getting to the point where I could not get it over 45 or it would feel like the trany was going. When I pulled the plugs out, they were running lean. I have had my Check engine light pop on with the Cam Pos Sen, but I have replaced that. That code has never came back, but it is still running lean, and backfiring in the intake when leaving a stop. I am wondering if the fuel pump may be going out, or what else it might by. I work on older cars with carbs, so not all that sure with the injection stuff.
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My 2002 F-150 with the 5.4 has an issue with a high rev (1000 RPM for a few seconds) while at a stop sign, along with a clunking/banging sound coming from under the truck. This is when I have the brake mashed all the way, and this all happens at the same time, almost every time I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. I do have an intake manifold leak, which i have recently determined, but I do not know if the high rev at a stop sign has to do with the manifold leak or to do with the transmission sounding thump I hear. Could this be a torque converter not unlocking, and then suddenly unlocking? Because after the thump sound, the RPM's go down to around 650 from 1000 every time.
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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I have a 2002 f150 super crew, 5.4l and 4wd. The low tone horn is not working and I am having trouble locating it. Where do you suppose Ford has hid it?
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Is there a fuse or some thing? Can I rig it?
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I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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I have a 97' F150, 4x4, Auto trans, 5.4L Lariat. Power locks and windows. Auto locking hubs. It doesn't appear to have any theft deterrent system installed.
It has been sitting for some time. When I hook up the battery the headlights, dash lights, and wipers turn on and the horn starts blowing continuously.
Cycling the key in the ignition or door has no effect. Cycling the key to the start position does not engage the starter.
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The one on my truck sounds pretty wimpy. I don't use it a lot but it's supposed to get your attention... Mine., Not so good.
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I have a 2003 F150. My horn and cruise both stopped working. All fuses are OK. Cruise controls are on steering wheel (as is horn). Why both would stop working???
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My truck horn sounds wimpy and how I can look into for a deeper sound. I am looking for a simple replacement that doesn't need any extra wiring or modification.
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