Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Heater Won't Working - Replace Blend Door?
Oct 27, 2013
Over the last few days I have read several threads about heaters not working and blend door replacement. My '02 4.6 F-150 has 250k+ miles and I've always done regular maintenance on it. With the cold front moving in I've noticed that the heater is not blowing hot air. I flushed the radiator and flushed the heater core several times to make sure the core was not clogged. I also replaced the upper radiator hose because of the "crunchy" sound when squeezed. I also replaced the thermostat. Still, the heater is not blowing hot. I assume like many others that the blend door needs to be replaced. My question is do I need to replace the door only or the door and the motor (actuator)? I guess I need to test the motor before buying a new one. I saw a video where you remove all the components on the transmission hump and can actually stick you finger in the motor opening to see if the shaft has come apart.
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Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
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My ex-has the electronic temp control. I've noticed there is very little difference from full hot to turned down less than 1/2 way.
(I'll convert to Fahrenheit here) Example - lowest temp setting is 60. If I am on heat, turning it from 60 to 66, gives me almost full hot. A slight difference is felt turning it to 68 and 70, but basically, 70 is full HOT. Continuing to turn it up to 88 makes zero difference.
I figured the blend door actuator might be toast, but it is in fact moving. I pulled the heater core cover off and here is what I noticed.
At 60, the blend door is fully open (correct, pulling cold air from outside) turning it to 66 the blend door almost fully closes. then the last little bit gets closed when going from 66-70. Anything hotter than 70 is of no use because mechanically it IS on full hot at 70. So basically I get full cold, or full hot, nothing in the middle. I pulled blend door actuator out, cleaned all the built-up crud around the shaft, took it apart and cleaned it, (no broken gears) no effect.
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I purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
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I have a 2013 Lariat with 135K miles. Yesterday started a loud and consistent clicking under the center dash. When I turn the heater up to 77 degrees or above it stops. I have dual AC controls and the passenger side will now occasionally blow hot compared to the driver side when I have them on the same temperature.
Based on what I have researched I need to replace my heater blend door. Need to confirm if this sounds correct? Are there different blend doors for driver vs. passenger side repair?
As importantly I am looking for a good set of instructions on how to gain access to the heater blend door motor in order to take care of the replacement myself. My understanding is it is a $40 part buy may be heavy on services due to access. My 2013 is stocked with the sync touch screen / navigation option .....
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
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Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
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My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
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My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
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I have a 2001 F150, 2WD, 5.4L. Neither the heat nor the air conditioning works. The blower works fine on all settings, and the air blows out of the correct ducts in accordance with the switch settings. The problem is the heat does not blow hot, and the AC does not blow cold. Everything is just the temperature of outside air.
If I jumper power to the compressor at the relay socket in the fuse box, I can make the compressor run and it provides cold air. The relay does not seem to be the issue because replacing the relay does not work. The heater core is hooked up, just no hot air.
I was thinking maybe the problem is in the temperature level switch in the dash panel. Does that sound like the best possibility? Do you think these problems are connected, or am I looking at two different issues.
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I have a 04 Silverado crew cab with automatic AC. After many dead battery problems, the AC blend doors quit working correctly. If I pull the fuse and then let them reprogram, it may take several tries but I can eventually get them to work correctly. The problem then is that it only lasts for a couple of days. How to program these correctly?
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I have a 2003 f150. I had to bypass the heater core and now my A/C isn't working. The A/C compressor don't even come ON.
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My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
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I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
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Have a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
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2002 F150 5.4... I thought that I saw on here before a link that explained how to replace the heater core without removing the entire dash console. Looking for a link for this or get some good directions on how to replace the heater core?
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I just bought a 2001 f150 supercrew. I was told that the locking mechanism didn't work right so I took off the door panel. I can tell when using the power locks that the actuator is weak and probably needs replacing. I also noticed that there is not cable or rod going to the actual door lock, that is to say where you put the key in the door to unlock or lock the door. Need a picture of what this locking system should look like? I assume that for some reason I am missing the rod that goes from the actuator to the door lock. And I can't just look at the passenger side because it is the same way.
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Last week my door locks just stopped working so I checked all the fuses and relays which all were good but still no power took door panels off and checked with tester and no power to switches or actuators, Checked wiring in between door and cab and no broken or bare wires. This truck does have remotes and they don't work either, what's going on ?
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2002 F-150 XLT. Came with factory keyless entry. The remote type, not the keypad on the door.
A few months ago I noticed the remote would not unlock or lock the doors when I pressed the remote buttons. Usually after a few tries it would work though. Fast forward to Sunday and now the remote doesn't seem to work at all.
I changed the battery in the remote. No difference. Then I then reprogrammed the remote and it worked fine locking and unlocking the door. So I thought I was in the clear. Then this [Tuesday] morning I try hitting the button on the remote and sure enough it's not doing anything.
I'm really stumped what to do here. Could the receiver in the truck be bad? The truck isn't driven a whole lot. But the battery in the truck has enough juice to start the truck. So I don't think that's the problem. Any guesses?
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I bought the truck from the original owner, its a true to life cream puff. Fully loaded. What I don't like is the doors lock automatically when I start driving. I want to disable that feature. Any way to accomplish this? 2002 Supercrew XLT lariat....
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