Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Front Seats Higher Than Rear - Remove Coil Spacers?
Dec 7, 2016
I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
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I have a 2002 Echo sedan. I'd like to remove the rear seats completely for more storage (I am a musician). I was able to get the bottom foam off, but the seat "backs" are more stubborn. I see there are two bolts on the floor frame in the middle of the seat backs, and one bolt on each side of the seats where they meet the doors/frame. I tried to remove the bolts on the metal floor, but they do not budge... One socket wrench sheared right off while trying to spin it loose, and when I used a socket bit on my drill with an impact wrench attachment, it still wont budge... Are they locktitied in?
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first off this not my truck i am asking about it's my dads, he has a 2002 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4L and he replaces the coil packs all the time is there a way to prevent these from failing so often, and is there an easy way to get to the spark plug on the very back on the passenger side?
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ok, I have an 02 f-150 4x4 that I did the brakes, shocks, and inner and outer tie rod ends. When I was done, the truck sat higher in the front end and the caster/camber was way out. bottom of tire sits way in. Is this just and adjustment to the tie rods, or what. The old rod ends were pretty bad. Could this be the result of an alignment tech setting caster way out to account for the bad ball joints?
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
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I have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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2002 F150 4X4 7700
I'm trying to install front brake rotors and pads. I got the caliper off and the rotor bracket off. But i can't get the rotor off. The rotor is rusted in place.
I have sprayed liquid wrench and hammered the life out of the rotor from the front the back and in between. It will not budge. How the am i supposed to get this thing off???
I'm about to break out the torch but i don't want to fry the wheel bearings.
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I bought my current truck this past December (2002 SCREW Lariat FX4) and recently had my first reason to engage 4WD. I noticed a rumbling noise at speed (35-40mph.) After searching this forum, I checked the heat shield near the front drive shaft, and it is not rubbing. Everything looks to be in good working order. The sound is coming from somewhere in the front driveline, not the transfer case, as it the sound continues after the t-case is switched to 2wd, before the center disconnect disengages.
Checked the front diff fluid and it is topped-off. The drive shaft has some significant surface rust, so it could be the u-joints, but it's a pretty straight shot from the t-case to the front diff, so I don't think the sound is coming from there. Where the noise is coming from? CV joints in the half shafts, perhaps? Truck has 106K miles on it, and is in immaculate condition. I doubt it's ever seen any serious 4WD duty, but it did spend it's first two years in the Detroit area, so it may have seen some winter highway use. My last truck was an '01 4x4, and it was always whisper quiet in 4WD.
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What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?
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I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
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I have 2002 f150 XL 4.6 L 2 wheel drive.Do i have rear discs?Need to change them not sure what to buy.
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I've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
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I noticed a few weeks ago when I was in the bed of my truck that the black plastic trim piece around the rear window appears to be broken. it's on the left side near the top. when I look down there it looks like the brackets are broken on one side. I've never noticed any water leak back there. I'd like to definitely get it fixed, but I don't think the dealer would have a listing for it anymore if it's not crazy expensive. I looked at LMC truck and there doesn't seem to be what I need on there. It's a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew non-sliding window.
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I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
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I have a 2002 F-150 extended cab and the rear door(drivers side) quit opening a few days ago. No warning--worked one day and just stopped opening the next. Are there any tricks to getting the panel off to ck. for trouble spots?
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
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2002 Screw 4X4 with 5.4 ... Truck has 180K miles.
Howl / Growl noise we think from the front. Both front wheel bearings have been changed without improvement. A rotational issue as it only does it when moving and still does it if you put it in neutral and let it coast.
2 WD or 4 WD does not seem to make much difference. Been checking and testing everything without success. Drive shafts and u-joints are tight etc.
How to test it? It was my truck and is my son's truck now. They have run it on a hoist and tried to determine where the sound comes from. Going to try that again but it might be different when the wheels are not on the ground and there is no weight on things.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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Noticed my 2002 F150 had a very slight vibration in the seat / steering wheel when cruising down the highway at 60 MPH.. Very slight, but was not there 2 weeks ago.. It seem to get a little worst as the 2 weeks progressed. Got all 4 tires balanced and rotated... no luck...Took both rear wheels off-- no problems with tires -- checked bearing clearance-- pushed and twisted on driveshaft yolk to check pinion bearing... nothing found......... last resort was drop back end of driveshaft and check U-joint.. It was tight and dry. Put drive shaft in 12 ton press and pushed out the u-joint bearings. Very dry and joint pins were starting to spall....... I mention this because I had checked " clearance" and "slop" and had "no noise" before removal... Truck has 139K miles on original u-joints .......... Something to keep in mind. Eventually it would have worn to the point that it was obvious, but in the first stages of failure, you just get small symptoms.
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