2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
View 4 RepliesI am needing to replace the selector switch for my 4x4 on my 2003 F150 Lariat FX4... I already have the new switch. Whats the best way to get in there to remove and replace the switch?
View 7 RepliesMy selector switch does not light up when engaging four wheel drive on my 98 f150,could this be my GEM module gone bad ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
View 4 RepliesWhen I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
Just bought a 2002 4.6 v8. Check engine light was on and it pulls code po340 for the camshaft position sensor. I took a look at it and found its not plugged up. The plug is missing but the two wires are still there. I can replace the two wire plug but does it matter which wire goes to which side of the sensor?
View 3 RepliesHow do I get the ac control switch out of the dash? Something must have come loose as I only get cold air or heat to the windshield...
View 13 RepliesI made a big mistake, I was cleaning out my truck and accidentally switched my 4 wheel drive to the 4 low position. Not knowing this I started the truck and just drove it all day. Then I noticed my mistake and now the truck will not shift into either 4 high or 4 low!
The truck drives just fine, I feel no pull when I turn to the left or right so it seems that it never did any shifting into 4 high or 4 low, so I'm looking for recommendations on maybe how to fix?
I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
Put foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 6.0 truck. My vent selector is stuck in the 'dash vent' position. I can't switch it to defrost, floor, or anything else. This past winter I noticed that heat would blow well but only through the dash vents. Now that summer is well underway I noticed that the AC blows through the dash vents also, but it doesn't blow very cold. I checked the freon, topped it off (didn't overfill), and still have the same issue. I checked the fuses and all are good also.
Of course, moving the selector to Max AC doesn't work either. Does this all point to the blend door motor? I hope not as the reading I have done means that this is one tough project to tackle.
Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
View 7 RepliesI have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
I had a plug blowout last Thursday on the freeway. I wasn't sure of what happened with my truck, it was a shutgun going off. I had to towed to my local Firestone.
My truck is a F-150 4.6 2003 with 206,000 miles.
The short of the story, plug #3 blowout. It trashed the coil and I needed a new plug. They used a Helicoli and I have been reading that they shouldn't have used a Helicoli. They should have used a Time-set.
What's wrong with the Helicoli's? Is this fixed going to last for awhile? They said the helicoli worked well. The truck had 7 NGKs and 1 motorcraft. It has all new motorcrafts now.
I have a 2003 Model F150 4x4 that has always ran good for me, and has only had minor issues ever since I've had it. Not too bad considering it has 266,xxx miles on it and running 100 miles a day on the original motor & transmission.
Here's my problem - my air conditioning will only blow thru the defrost. I can hit vent on the control panel and it will blow thru the vents, but if i hit max ac it switches to defrost. It has gotten super hot around here and i really need this to work correctly. I'm not very knowledgeable about this stuff (have worked more on older vehicles) so i guess I'll need a fairly detailed reply if possible. I have looked under the hood looking for messed up vacuum lines but haven't seen any that looked bad.
So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
View 1 RepliesJust picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
View 2 RepliesSo the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?