Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 FX4 - AC Wouldn't Turn Off When Took The Key Out
Jul 25, 2014
I have an 02 F150 super crew FX4 4.6. Over the last year, about once every 2 months I noticed that the AC wouldn't turn off when I took the key out. I would turn it back on and off and it would stop. A couple weeks ago during a mild hurricane (we get those in NC, just a lot of rain) the truck started trying to start itself in the drive way but wouldn't turn over.
Then it started trying to turn itself over while I was driving. (but only after heavy rain). I thought I identified that it wouldn't happen if I pulled out the key ignition lock cylinder thing. You know, you have to push it in and then turn to start; If I made sure it wasn't pushed it, it seemed not to ghost start. So I figured maybe it was an issue with the key ignition lock.
Then this week it wouldn't start, it would try to turn over but not start. (usually after rain). I replaced the starter solenoid relay and things seemed to be fine for the last 2 days.
Well it rained like hell last night. It wouldn't turn over. After trying to turn it over and removing the key, the accessories stayed on (fan, radio, etc - even with opening door). I pulled the 50a fuze which killed the accessories, and it would turn over without that fuse in, but I had to put the fuse back in to get it out of park.
Another clue, recently, occasionally I hear relay clicking behind my dash after the key is out when it is acting up. So I am lost here. Should I rip out the dash and see if water is leaking in?
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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About a month ago I replaced my blower control module. I purchased the module from Rockauto. The first replacement module lasted about a month. I received a replacement because the blower stayed on high and wouldn't turn off. The second module only last one week, the blower once again only blows on high and won't shut off. Both replacement modules were made by Dorman. Could something be killing them or am I just getting crap parts?
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
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I have a 2002 F-150 xlt 4x4 5.4l V8, 96k miles. been sitting about 3 weeks i went to start it and nothing.. thought ok jump. We tried jumping/charging the battery nothing. then we switched batteries from running car same thing when i turn key just hear a click in dash. battery light remained on even when we swapped out. The theft light was off as well.
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I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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So the PO tells me he was flying down the highway and went to cancel his cruise control and it wouldn't turn off. He claims he made it to the shoulder of the highway and killed the ignition. When he restarted the truck is was turned off and it hasn't been used since. I tried to use it yesterday but couldn't get it to work?
So I do the search and find out that the deactivation switch is most likely the issue. I just picked up a new one today and was curious if it is just a R & R thing or if it needs to be bleed off or something? Is there a need to test it or just change it out? Sound like something that would cause these issues?
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I have a 2001 7.3 that recently had a throttle position sensor issue I replaced the sensor 4 days ago and my truck ran like new. Until last night I shut my truck off and went to start it up a few seconds later and it would crank continually but wouldn't turn over so I went for the obvious and replaced the cam sensor but that didn't change anything. My scanner is throwing a waste gate fail code.
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Just picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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It started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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This happened about a year ago when I quickly started and shut it right off. I googled something and I found a sequence, procedure. Something about open door open switch wait etc, it worked started right up. Now I been stuck for 2 days looking and can't find it.All I have is regular metal key. 1997 f150....
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My 1997 F150 with the 5.4 engine has 167,300 miles. My wife drove it to work the other day and when she went to come home the truck would not turn over. The starter would engage the flywheel but would not turn the engine over. I had it towed home and I pulled the starter. Advance Auto bench checked it for me and said the starter was fine, only drawing 36 amps. I have also verified the cabling from the battery and starter relay is fine.
So here is some history up to this point. Over the past four months the battery light would come on and off. I had the battery (only 8 months old) and the alternator check and both tested fine. At one time the check engine light came on and the code indicated a miss fire on the #3 cylinder. I pulled the plug (new platium plugs at 120k miles) which looked fine and reconnected everything. Since I disconnected the neg. terminal of the battery the engine code cleared. Once in a while the engine would sputter and run rough at 40 - 45 mph, but run fine at slower or higher speeds.
Since I had the starter off I used a pry bar to try to manually turn the flywheel, seems to turn in one direction but not the other. I have also tried to turning the engine over by hand via the belt and putting a socket on crankshaft pully bolt. I can not get the engine to turn over. So in my reading on the internet it seems like I might have a hydrolock. I have not lost any antifreeze that I can detect and I have not seen any white smoke coming from the exhaust. From what I'm reading there are two types of hydrolocks, one caused by antifreeze and the other caused by a open fuel injector.
Does what I am describing sound like a hydrolock and what is the best way to diagnose if it is caused by a leaking gasket or injector? Should I pull a couple of plugs on each side and try to crank the truck?
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A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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