Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Couldn't Program Key Fob?
Mar 29, 2013
Bought a 2002 F150. NO door button pad, and the guy lost the FOB. I bought a new FOB, but i cant get the truck to go into program mode. Suppose to turn the key on- off, 8 times and horn beeps... I never get the beep. There is a 5 digit code on the card in the glove box, so i assume it came with remote entry. How to check ? There is also a small black box about 1 inch cube attached to windhield infront of thr mirror. Has a blue LED light on it and small wireharness into roof console area. My 2001 did not have this. Is it factory for compass or part of aftermarket remote start or alarm system ? Would something like that disable my ability to program the FOB ?
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I have an 2003 f150 4x4, 5.4 king ranch.The brakes dont work very well, they dont go to the floor, but just dont do a whole lot when you step on them. 3 different mechanics have tried to fix it without luck. the last one said it need a anti lock part that costs 1200.oo for the part, i just took it home.
148,000 miles on it and i have put brakes on it and had the rotors turned.
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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I have an '02 X. I have re-programmed the seat belt alarm setting per the owners manual and set the "lights on after ignition off" to suit my needs.
The one thing that is driving me nuts though is that when I turn the ignition off and get out only the driver's door is unlocked. I want ALL locks to unlock. I haven't seen anything in the manual about this. How to re-program the locks so that they all unlock when the ignition is switched off?
I've put put about 2000 miles on the X now, towing my 5000lb trailer, mild offroading and running around town. It sure puts a smile on my face!
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on my 2002 lariat.. Crew Cab dually. 7.3.. it will go into programming mode after 8 cycles.. Door locks actuate, but fob wont program. I checked the fobs and they are sending signals. What could be problem?
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Last summer, driving my 2003 Audi A4, my A/C suddenly stopped working, and the "econ" button couldn't be switched off. I took it to my mechanic, who said that a loose screw had blown a hole through my A/C compressor (image attached). Not only was my A/C not working, but I had to pay $1400 right then and there to get a new compressor installed. As I understand it, the compressor in my car is run by the timing belt and if it jammed, it could ruin the engine. So I paid up, but still didn't get have the A/C fixed.
My mechanic told me that the hole blown through the compressor had sent shards of aluminum throughout the A/C system. So to fix the A/C, he'd have to flush the whole system and replace parts throughout the car... probably adding up to north of $3,000. Definitely not worth it, considering the total value of the car.
Any second opinions? Is there an easier way to flush the A/C system? As far as I understand, with my new compressor, all the parts of my A/C system work fine, but I just gotta get all the aluminum shards out.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
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Woke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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2002 F-150 XLT. Came with factory keyless entry. The remote type, not the keypad on the door.
A few months ago I noticed the remote would not unlock or lock the doors when I pressed the remote buttons. Usually after a few tries it would work though. Fast forward to Sunday and now the remote doesn't seem to work at all.
I changed the battery in the remote. No difference. Then I then reprogrammed the remote and it worked fine locking and unlocking the door. So I thought I was in the clear. Then this [Tuesday] morning I try hitting the button on the remote and sure enough it's not doing anything.
I'm really stumped what to do here. Could the receiver in the truck be bad? The truck isn't driven a whole lot. But the battery in the truck has enough juice to start the truck. So I don't think that's the problem. Any guesses?
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I have a 2002 f150 lariat super crew 4x2 with a 5.4L engine with 145,000 miles. My tranny is shot, and i was told it happened because the tranny cooler went bad. A few people have told me it sounds strange that the cooler went bad on its own. The truck is still at the shop that diagnosed it and i cant seem to figure out if it has the 4R70w or the 4r100 tranny in it. Is this something that's standard or something i will have to look at on the truck itself to figure out.
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2002 F150 4X4 7700
I'm trying to install front brake rotors and pads. I got the caliper off and the rotor bracket off. But i can't get the rotor off. The rotor is rusted in place.
I have sprayed liquid wrench and hammered the life out of the rotor from the front the back and in between. It will not budge. How the am i supposed to get this thing off???
I'm about to break out the torch but i don't want to fry the wheel bearings.
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truck runs good just has po125 code
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4L 4x4 7700 and she was misfiring bad the other day I changed coil pack 1 and 4 because that's what my codes where reading and i changed all of my spark plugs just because the check engine light went away for a little over a day and boy was she running good she had a little hiccup with a misfire but it quickly fixed itself but later now my check engine light is back on and is miss firing again and this time it isnt fixing itself what is going on with my truck?
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Well...I had the ECM replaced on my 2002 F150. She ran great for about 60 miles. I had trouble with the key right off at the dealer - it wouldn't start, so I flipped the key over, and it started. Drove about 35 miles, and had starting issues a couple of times, but minor, and over quickly. Came home, and did not drive it for a week. Got in this morning, and it WOULD NOT START. Turned over normal, but won't start. Now I am stuck 15 miles from the dealer who programmed it, and no way to get it there. Anything that I can do to get it started to make the trip?
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I have a 2002 f150 2wd 4.2l engine. With 135,000 miles I just replaced the battery about 300 miles ago and I usually tow a trailer almost always. Also I replaced the Plugs and Plug wires about 15,000 miles ago When I am towing I turn the OD off. Now the problem. I noticed that when I am not towing now that when approaching highway speeds it seems to shift back and forth from overdrive while accelerating only.
But when pulling a trailer with OD off it shifts fine. No engine codes appear. I am due to service the transmission fluid I think I have about 35,000 on the fluid now but before I do I just want to pass this that while I have the pan out. Is there anything else I should check or could this just be a issue with dirty fluid Or Possibly the drivetrain controller because I hardly ever drive without towing..
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Truck starts right up. Will die if I dont give it some gas for about 5 seconds of so. No check engine lights. I did leave the hood open yesterday adn the auto sprinklers came on. I completely forgot about it. I check the air filter before I started it and its dry so I dont feel its water intrusion. I shot a quick burst of carb cleaner in the IAC and then reinstalled it. No joy. When running it will idle and runs fine. If I unplug the IAC it stumbles and almost dies. Any way to test the IAc, TPS or MAF sensor ? I hate just throwing parts at them without diagnosing them properly.
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I am having great difficulty trying to figure out why my truck is surging so bad in park or in gear at idle. I have to mat the brake while in drive to prevent me from ramming the car in front of me. It all started when I replaced the air filter. Everything I've read leads me to the EGR valve, but that has been bypassed.
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I have 2002 5.4L f150 120k miles. Bought it almost 2 years ago and did not notice this vibration at the time but it could have been there and I didn't realize it. The trans was replaced by ford with a reman at 90k. I'd assume they inspected the trans mounts but who knows.
At idle only, there is a vibration. Enough that I can see water in a bottle moving and a plastic bag shake., felt through the seat, hand on engine can feel it, can feel it through the door..etc. Very annoying. At 700-750 rpm it goes away. Happens in all gears. I don't want to shotgun approach this. What I've done: Replaced plugs and coils since it needed them anyway. They looked good! No difference. I've sprayed the maf down and cleaned the throttle plate (I know your not supposed to but some 16 year old will try to tell me it cured his idle and he gained 10 mpg, so I figured I would mention it). I've removed the IAC and cleaned it, plunger moves freely. My idle does not fluctuate. I have watched mode $6, it's not a misfire. I have removed the pcv hose and checked for cracks - it's in good shape. Replaced the pcv since it's cheap. Ran Chevron tehcron through it. Checked codes - nothing. I have an edge and it happens on all tunes as well as stock.
I have ability to read live data but do not know enough to interpret it, so that is about useless unless you can provide me acceptible ranges.
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I just bought a 2002 f150 7700 series and how to improve the gas mileage. i was thinking about putting in a performance chip.
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I have an 02 F150 super crew FX4 4.6. Over the last year, about once every 2 months I noticed that the AC wouldn't turn off when I took the key out. I would turn it back on and off and it would stop. A couple weeks ago during a mild hurricane (we get those in NC, just a lot of rain) the truck started trying to start itself in the drive way but wouldn't turn over.
Then it started trying to turn itself over while I was driving. (but only after heavy rain). I thought I identified that it wouldn't happen if I pulled out the key ignition lock cylinder thing. You know, you have to push it in and then turn to start; If I made sure it wasn't pushed it, it seemed not to ghost start. So I figured maybe it was an issue with the key ignition lock.
Then this week it wouldn't start, it would try to turn over but not start. (usually after rain). I replaced the starter solenoid relay and things seemed to be fine for the last 2 days.
Well it rained like hell last night. It wouldn't turn over. After trying to turn it over and removing the key, the accessories stayed on (fan, radio, etc - even with opening door). I pulled the 50a fuze which killed the accessories, and it would turn over without that fuse in, but I had to put the fuse back in to get it out of park.
Another clue, recently, occasionally I hear relay clicking behind my dash after the key is out when it is acting up. So I am lost here. Should I rip out the dash and see if water is leaking in?
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Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
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