Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Cannot Remove The Key When Try To Turn Off Ignition
Oct 29, 2013
When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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My boss gave me a 2002 f150 if i can get it started. No key and no paper work in order to get locksmith to replace key. The only way i have noticed to get it started is to drill through cylinder to get it out. Need to know how to get it going?
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I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
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97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
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Since yesterday, every time I turn the key off and remove it from the ignition the truck just keeps running. Engine, radio, according and everything just like the key was still there. When I press the unlock button it shuts everything down. It is a 2014 F250 with 4500 miles on it. I don't know if I did something or what but I am confused.
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I have an 02 F150 super crew FX4 4.6. Over the last year, about once every 2 months I noticed that the AC wouldn't turn off when I took the key out. I would turn it back on and off and it would stop. A couple weeks ago during a mild hurricane (we get those in NC, just a lot of rain) the truck started trying to start itself in the drive way but wouldn't turn over.
Then it started trying to turn itself over while I was driving. (but only after heavy rain). I thought I identified that it wouldn't happen if I pulled out the key ignition lock cylinder thing. You know, you have to push it in and then turn to start; If I made sure it wasn't pushed it, it seemed not to ghost start. So I figured maybe it was an issue with the key ignition lock.
Then this week it wouldn't start, it would try to turn over but not start. (usually after rain). I replaced the starter solenoid relay and things seemed to be fine for the last 2 days.
Well it rained like hell last night. It wouldn't turn over. After trying to turn it over and removing the key, the accessories stayed on (fan, radio, etc - even with opening door). I pulled the 50a fuze which killed the accessories, and it would turn over without that fuse in, but I had to put the fuse back in to get it out of park.
Another clue, recently, occasionally I hear relay clicking behind my dash after the key is out when it is acting up. So I am lost here. Should I rip out the dash and see if water is leaking in?
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
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I have a 2002 F-150 xlt 4x4 5.4l V8, 96k miles. been sitting about 3 weeks i went to start it and nothing.. thought ok jump. We tried jumping/charging the battery nothing. then we switched batteries from running car same thing when i turn key just hear a click in dash. battery light remained on even when we swapped out. The theft light was off as well.
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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When I turn my engine off and remove the key from the ignition, my front and back parking lights remain on. So every time I turn off my car I have been disconnecting the negative post so the lights turn off. How do I resolve this? 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback....
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Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
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I have a 2002 F350 V10 and one night I turned the headlights on and when the ignition switch was turned to the off position the lights would go off. When the ignition switch is turned off the lights come back on. I changed the ignition switch but the problem still exists.
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1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
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I have a '98 F150 front 60/40 seat going into a '77 shortbox F100. I've searched and found a lot of info on repairing a lumbar support but nobody seems to mention how to get the stupid off. I don't want to break anything but I can't see any screws or clips. Does it just pull off with force?
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How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I was having all the tell tale signs of the almighty ignition switch. No lights, wipers, heater fan. But I didn't have time to change it. The other day went to start it and nothing. I changed the switch I have headlights wipers blower fan now which is sweet. But the car still wont turn over.
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I drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
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My 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
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