Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Bolts Stuck In Suspension Bushings
Aug 12, 2012
So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
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My rear bushings on my 1997, A4 Audi, make a crunching thumping sounds when the body torques over irregular surfaces. My Audi mechanic says that it is the bushings. Replacing the A frames and bushings will cost more than half the car's worth. I belief that dust got into the bushings when I went on dirt roads in Death Valley or they are just worn. When I blast the bushings with water the noise disappears or dampens for a while. Car has 186,000 miles.To keep the noise down, can I add graphite or some other material to the bushings?
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I am buying my Dad's '99 F-150 4x4 Lariat from him and this truck squeaks something terrible. I am assuming that the chassis bushings need to be replaced. I have 2 questions.
1. Am I on the right track to solve the problem?
2. How hard is the job?
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2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I am going to replace the upper control arms this weekend. I noticed that there are regular bolts with no cam washer installed. I have read conflicting info on whether the cam washer set up is needed. Do I have to install these or can I just put the old bolts back in just like they are. When I replaced the uppers on my 1997 T-Bird I put in new bolts but there was no mention of a cam washer setup for it anywhere that I saw. What would be the problems if I just reinstalled the old bolts. Right now the truck drives straight as an arrow but the lower ball joint on the driver side is shot so I will be replacing it also.
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i have a 2003 f150 xlt 5.4 4x4 truck i change the valve gasket cuz of a leak since it was off i paint both covers but forgot the order os bolts theirs long and short bolts can some one show me a drawing or how the order of bolts go on the both sides
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How does one get to the top mounting bolts to engine? Are special tools required? Is there an access plate?
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
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On my 99 at the tip of the springs there is what looks used to be plastic wear spacers between the leafs. Mine are worn out and I think it is part of a squeak noise I am chasing.
What that part would be, where I could get them, and do I have to break down the leaf assembly to change them or could I raise the truck by the frame and take the load off the springs enough to get the in?
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Car has a little over 100K. How to replace the bushings on the suspension arms. Took my car in for the brake switch recall and was told my bushings were cracked. Not sure which ones, but I assume all of them. Looked online for a DIY, but not for the RX330. From some of the DIY's I've seen so far, it looks like a bit$! to replace those rubber bushings.
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S. When I drive on the highway and the road dips and then comes back up, I hear a crunching sound as the wheels come back up. It almost sounds like springs. I thought maybe it was the cold weather but it isn't. The sound is in the front end.
At 53,000 miles, it seems early for this kind of problem and I never have had this so early in the life of a car. I do have the Toyota Extended Warranty of 125000 miles and 8 years. Would this be covered under that?
It doesn't really happen over bumps, it's when the car dips down and comes back up on the highway...50 mph or more.
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1998 4X4. My rear suspension is so loud and noisy it's driving me crazy. I've soaked the thing many times with wd40 but it doesnt seem to work or work not more than a day or two.
I've tried to make a pic with my phone because I think at the rear side of the leafs they are separating way too much... I've got no more than about 150lbs and a LPG-tank on my bed...
Moreover I think my truck rides bad. I know it's no Cadillac and I'm running 33s and its a 4x4 BUT I've got quite new Rancho shocks and the whole front suspension is in good shape and it got an alignment a month ago...
So what do you think, after 181.000mls time to get new rear leafs or take the old ones apart, free them from the rust, paint & grease them and put them back together?
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I have a creaking/squeaking noise in my suspension that is getting worse and worse. maybe it isn't getting worse, but it sounds worse to me everyday because I am tired of hearing it. I have swapped out my shocks and that did not do the trick. i have tried lubricating the leaf springs and all other suspension parts in there, still nothing. i was thinking about changing out the entire leaf spring package, but exactly what the problem is.
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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i just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
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I now purchased a 1997 Ford F150, I bought it with the past owner saying it needs a transmission but it drives nice until I get to about 35mph, at which point it feels as if the front diff is stuck in 4wd and it shakes violently, I have read other forums and was hopeful that it was the transfercase issue where you take the transfercase motor off and turn it into 2wd manually and it didn't seem to change anything, it sounds like it is trying to change from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low, but it doesn't seem to sound like it is actually changing anything, the turning on dry pavement does change after switching it but it still shakes and feels like the front end is keeping it from being in 2wd, as I have done very little work on Fords, in the past and I do like the feel of this truck and would love to fix it myself and not take it to someone to have it fixed.
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Well I was trying out my four wheel drive today and it worked fine until I went to turn off switch, it would not cut off it is a 98 F150 switch is located on dash. It is stuck in four wheel high!
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