Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Added Cruise Now Ran Rough?
Jul 15, 2017
My 2002 f150 xl didn't come with factory cruise..I have installed all the essentials steering wheel, clock spring, cruise module, redundant brake sensor. My e.c.u. would not support cruise so I found a 1999 with all the same parameters as mine, I changed the dash cluster, e.c.u. , both pats modules, key cylinder ect....the truck started but ran horrible. My trucks has a 4.6 in it so did the donor truck. It's a 2x4 automatic with about 250k mi
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I have an '02 F150 Lariat CC 5.4L. The truck is new to me and neither the cruise control nor the horn works. i have checked all (known) fuses and relays. I have tried the cc diagnostic, and the dash light DOES NOT illuminate. Should I assume that the dash light is not burned out? Is there a way to test the clock spring connections for continuity? and how do I access the connection
i checked the cc brake pressure switch and have continuity there.
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I am having trouble with all sorts of functions on my 2002 F150 4x4, 4wd not working, cluster module illumination not working, horn not working, reving up and down at idle and sometimes dyin, cruise control quit working. I have been reading it is the GEM module that causes these issues. My question is I ordered a new one from Ford, when it arrives I was told I can just install it and It should be pre programmed. but one ford house tells me that they have to install it and program it. Which it right? I have seen several sites on u tube where people replace the module and then start their truck right up without any issue.
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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My truck runs rough/bad when it rains or is damp out. It stutters and had no acceleration. I just had a new fuel pump put in January. It improves after a while on the road. If it's wet, my travel sucks.
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So I recently acquired a 2002 F-150 4x4 super crew with the 5.4 V-8. It idles rough (surging from 400 - 700 rpm) when cold, and sometimes dies, but more often then not it stays running. It runs and drives fine when the accelerator is pressed and when going down the road. When it gets up to operating temperature, and has been there for a while, it seems to idle fine 95% of the time. The codes I have are P0136 (bad circuit to O2 sensor), P1151 (HO2S detects lean mixture or something like that), and the infamous P0171 and P0174, which is lean exhaust/mixture on both banks. Now I have read extensively on the internet about these symptoms and have done the following:
Sprayed every vacuum hose with carb cleaner, and even around the intake manifold and injectors.
Considered the IAC (its new, the guy I bought it from replaced it a couple months ago) Torque app for android phone says vacuum is good. Cleaned the MAF and air temp. sensor with electrical cleaner Checked all of the vacuum hoses on the engine by pulling them off
Put grease around the fitting where the PVC valve attaches to the valve cover. Seemed to make it idle a lot better after messing with it, but I don't know if it was a result of the engine being fully warmed up, or my messing with the PVC.
What to try next? I'm close to just dissecting the top part of this engine and seeing what the intake manifold gasket looks like..or could it really be an 02 sensor?
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The cruise switch on my brake master cylinder is bad and causing the cruise to not work. I have it bypassed with a jumper wire and it works fine. is there any reason not to do this?
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2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
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These are the code that keep spitting out. I have a 2002 f150 5.4L supercrewand it is running rough. I had this problem about 3 months back but i didnot get any codes from the computer i washed my truck a 1/2 day earlier, 2days later it went away. this time it has spit out 4 codes a po306/po307/po300/po316. the po307 and the po300 are gone, but the other two remain and it is still running rough 2days later. i had just washed my truck 30min. before, it started happening, is there water somewhere? My dad (long time mechanic) says use wire dry on the cops and it will go away. I have read other post on misfiring and I am still not sure what to do?
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My girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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2000 f150 4x4 auto 5.4 .. I have replaced vss and rear axle sensors. Checked all fuses. Did instrument panel test. Gauge sweeps. Still nothing.
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Just picked up a 03 Excursion limited 6.0, traded in my 04 f150 for it. Runs great- The dealer put in a new FICM and did a full tune up on it, also has stock bolts, NOT studs. I just added a SCT livewire with canned tunes, and have what feels like a misfire or stutter at high boost/ RPM. The only thing I see on the SCT gauges is the ICP hits about 22.5 and then drops off, that is with the street tune, when i go back to stock i can hit 24+ all day without a issue. Both tunes have my FICM at 48-48.5 and never moves. The ICP Duty also in both tunes will go to about .7-.8 and never drops... Is this the fuel pressure dropping from lack of the "Blue Spring mod" ?
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Ok replaced the front brakes, tie rod ends, and all ball joints today. Also flushed old brake fluid and replaced with new. Now my cruise control does not work. Light on the dash momentarily flashes when I try to set the speed. I have checked all the fuses and the connections and everything appears normal.
2001 Ford F150 5.4L 4x4 off road pkg stock height and tire size.
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I have a 2003 F150. My horn and cruise both stopped working. All fuses are OK. Cruise controls are on steering wheel (as is horn). Why both would stop working???
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2000 F 150, 4.2 v6, M5OD-2 Manual Transmission, LX, reg cab .. Cruise Control passed all static and dynamic self test. All fuses inside and under hood checked good and still cruse control will not engage. All other functions work: brake lights, turn signals, etc. Green cruise light is operational, checked pin #10 on wiring harness at servo,amplifier unit under hood and have good ground. The Cruise ON button will not turn on cruise control system and will not light green cruse light.
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A few years ago I had the clutch changed on my 1997 F150. Afterwards the cruise control wasn't working. When I brought the truck back to the repair shop I heard the manager tell the mechanic to "attach the clip by the pedal" and that fixed it.
I just had some work done, had to replace the oil pan, and the mechanic had to remove the transmission. Now the cruise control doesn't work. I changed the Pressure switch but it didn't fix the cruise control. What that clip might be that fixed the cruise control last time?
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