Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 5.4L Engine Stalls Out Unless Keep Foot On Gas Pedal On Hot Days
Jul 3, 2013
As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I have an 02 f150 ext cab fx4 with just under 140,000 miles my first problem was when I shift from reverse to drive I have a loud clunk/bang I was trying to find out what was wrong so my brother in law was looking out the drive shaft he pushed it into the rear end now when I am over 65mph and take my foot off the gas I have a vibration but only when I take my foot off the gas and above 60-65mph the steering wheel or peddles don't vibrate but the floor does .
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 F250 4 whl drive 7,3 L Diesel with auto tranny. It refuses to run unless the foot is on the brake pedal. I have replaced the brake stop switch and A L L the fuel filters. It will start at times and idle near perfect and at other times it will start and then stop. When it does idle there is not a skip but when you put it in drive it shuts down unless you keep your foot on the brake. I think I only have 2 hairs on me head I have not pulled out
View 1 Replies
2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 Replies
2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
View 3 Replies
I've got a 1997 F250 with a transmission problem that I've been trying to diagnose. The problem is I can't grab any codes from the truck. I took her to the transmission shop and they described to me the same problem I was having. Whenever I try reading codes with the engine off it fails, when I try reading codes with the engine on it stalls the engine. The transmission shop referred me to another shop that might be able to figure my problem out, but I'd like to leave that as a last resort. I've checked all fuses and relays and I have a new engine computer on order right now. However, I'd like to know if there are any other possibilities.
View 1 Replies
Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
View 14 Replies
Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
View 13 Replies
I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
View 2 Replies
2002 4.6L 75K Miles ... Truck has hard time starting if it sits for a few days. Recently had the fuel filter (under driver's door) replaced for first time, and mechanic said it was clogged (?). He also checked fuel pump pressure and said it was good (about 40 lbs). Truck starts OK if used every day. Battery seems OK, as starter turn engine fine. Seems that there's a fuel problem.
View 4 Replies
I've owned the truck for 8 months, did a fair bit of maintenance in the first two months (plugs, tranny fluid change, maf cleaned, o2s replaced), 320,000km runs very well, no codes.
When the truck is in gear and I put my foot on the brake after a second or so idling, the engine shakes. Releasing the brake, the shake stops, but it does it every time. Also, the belt or one of the pulleys will squeak a bit at the same time, but only idling with the brake on.
It doesn't seem like it is a serious problem, but what and why? My instincts are telling me it may be transmission related.
View 5 Replies
Put foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
View 14 Replies
Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
View 9 Replies
I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
View 3 Replies
After short trip, 02 f-150 v-6 will not crank every time but engine turns over. When it does crank, it runs fine the entire trip. 189,000 miles on motor and is a 4x2 extended cab.
View 1 Replies
I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
View 4 Replies
My girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
View 9 Replies
2002 F-150 XLT 4x4 5.4L... I am looking for wiring schematic for the engine control system. I purchased a haynes repair manual from Auto Zone yesterday but the diagram seems very generic and the colors are wrong for the O2 sensor for example. Right now my truck is in "Limp mode" Fuse is blown and I am trying to find out what all is on that particular circuit its Fuse 23 and the haynes manual says fuse 24 which my truck doesn't even have a 24.
View 1 Replies
1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
View 12 Replies
